I promise I’ll get back to the last two trip recaps, but for today, you get a more present post.
It’s pouring rain outside! I’m old enough to say, aha, we needed it, and it’s nice and makes things feel cozy inside, but I also do need to leave the house at some point, and that is less fun.
Life has been super hectic and crazy these past few weeks, and it continues for a few more. I’ve had so much work, it’s been great and awful, all at the same time. I’ve had a bunch of fun gigs, taught some neat students, done a short recording session, spent a morning judging students at a contest, played a fun concert and there’s more to come!
Notice how fabulous my right and left hands look. Also notice my expression, I seemed doubtful over what I was reading, perhaps. This was an outdoor gig at the Art Museum the other week.
Recorded a few things the other day, it was super fun. I enjoy the permanence of recording, when so much of music is fleeting.
My friend April took this picture from last night’s concert of the St Louis Chamber Soloists. She is in town (one night only) for a work thing. We went to Blueberry Hill after the concert for dinner and hanging out.
So, there’s my pictures. Life: practice, teach, play, try to get some exercise in, emails, and just barely keeping up on stuff around the house. BUT it’s so nice, so DECADENT not having to get up at 5:30 am, so I can sleep until after 7 am most days (there were a few earlier mornings last week, but that’s not the norm). We did manage to get out to eat one night (we sat outside and I’m still suffering from bug bits, those ridiculous bugs even bit my finger!), and Louie and I went to see “American Idiot” one night. It’s based on the Green Day album and a friend was playing in the orchestra so we thought it would be fun.
I’m very much in “get things done” mode, as you can probably tell. This week is baroque violin prep for a concert this weekend, in addition to a gig on viola in Paducah, Kentucky (!!). Also a couple of weddings, plus the dentist, probably book club (if I finish the book, which I’m a little behind, gah) and the usual students. My parents are popping in this weekend and will come to a concert, so I’m super excited about that! And the day they are here I’m not as busy, so I’ll be able to hang out mostly. But getting to that day will be a bit busy…
I had sort of forgotten how car rides to gigs with friends can be a fun diversion. I had a few out of town things the past weekend, and while I hate wasting the time, it was actually quite fun and relaxing to spend the time in the car chatting before and after. I used to spend a lot more time carpooling and driving to gigs–when I lived in Cleveland I played in a variety of regional orchestras that were a drive away, so each week I might drive 45 minutes to over an hour each way for rehearsals and concerts. I had put in my head that that was awful and annoying (and it WAS) but doing a bit of driving for this or that isn’t so bad, and maybe is even a little bit fun.
Anyway! As much as I’m enjoying this time of the year and happy for all the work, I am also looking forward to mid-October when things slow down just a little bit more. I do hope to finish my last trip blog posts before then…but you’ll just have to wait longer.
So! We left off on a train from Turku to Helsinki. I forgot to mention one sort of funny/strange thing that happened on the way to the Turku train station–we got on the bus and then at one stop the bus doors got stuck open for several minutes. The bus driver tried a variety of techniques to get them closed, and finally she got it done. No one else besides us seemed even remotely interested in the process, which led me to believe that either Finns have really great poker faces or that it is a common occurrence.
Anyway! Our train to Helsinki was uneventful: we ate little cheese on rye sandwiches. We got to the train station in Helsinki and stopped for an espresso near the station and then walked to our airbnb. It was about a 15-20 minute walk, but pleasant enough. Louie did find navigating in Helsinki to be a little more confusing than other cities: there were more roundabouts and streets going at more angles. The city was full of life, lots of trams, people walking, cars, buildings (some much more modern than we had been seeing), etc.
Our airbnb was terrific.
I took those pictures to share with you from the listing. It was a great place on a second floor, with plenty of space in the apartment and the bathroom, plus a large kitchen! The apartment is right near a tram stop and was easy to find (and a great location in the Kamppi neighborhood.)
Our first night in Helsinki wasn’t going to be relaxing though (if you thought that, you would be new to this blog) and so we set off for a concert at the Musiikkitalo which was part of the Helsinki Festival: the Orchestra of the Finnish National Orchestra conducted by Hannu Lintu. We walked there from the airbnb and enjoyed a nice walk, though I was hungry and we were sort of looking for a cafe. We ended up eating a nice snack at the concert hall, some sort of sandwiches with sparkling water (my addiction) and then found our seats.
I hope nobody is afraid of heights, hahahahahaha. The bars were very sturdy though and fairly close set.
Program:
The Orchestra of the FNO, Hannu Lintu & Karita Mattila Sofia Gubaidulina: The Wrath of God Ludwig van Beethoven: Ah! Perfido! op. 65 Richard Wagner: Liebestod from the opera Tristan und Isolde Aleksandr Scriabin: The Poem of Ecstasy
The hall was really modern looking, with zig zag aisles and seats on all sides. We thoroughly enjoyed the concert and then went for dinner afterwards. We found a mexican place that ended up being terrific. It was named Taqueria El Rey, and I had the cactus tacos with a hibiscus margarita.
By this point in the trip we were both exhausted, both for the day and for the weeks. We did sort of wish we could take a day off from traveling, but everything we did was so much fun and so interesting that it was hard to want to actually stop and take time, but we did find that stopping for fika (that’s the Swedish idea of coffee and pastries) was a good compromise, rather than spending too much time at home sleeping in, etc. We did go to bed right after this dinner though, and mostly maintained a fairly early bedtime of 10-11 pm. We also weren’t walking “as much” and seemed to be averaging 16000-18000 steps rather than than over 20000. So still quite a lot, but settling into a slightly “lazier” routine.
Day 14: Helskini Architecture Tour and Grön
I booked an architecture walking tour for us this morning. I had read that the architecture in Helsinki was more different than other places we were going and wanted to learn more about it, so I thought the tour would be a great way to do so. It was run by Ataman Tours and I would highly recommend it if you are interested in a small group tour that is really informative.
But first, coffee! We did have coffee at “home” but we wanted food too, and found both at a nearby coffeeshop called Kulma Kahvila 48. It seemed to popular with nearby construction workers as well, and we both got a coffee and a pulla (basically seemed to be a generic term for a pastry) for just a few euros.
After eating we walked to the meeting point for the tour, enjoying the views along the way. It’s quite fun noticing the different buildings and stores and businesses.
It was easy to meet up with Emet (the guide) and the other members of our walking tour–just two other people besides us and the guide. We started in the main square and then visited the University library, various buildings along the Esplanade, including a bookstore, and then ended at the Oodi Library.
That’s Emet talking in the photo. He was incredibly knowledgeable yet made it approachable and interesting. This is the library at the University of Helsinki, very fascinating architecture.
These are the buildings along the Esplanade.
In addition to learning about architecture, we learned a lot about the history and culture of Helsinki. One particular fascinating thing we learned was that all buildings are fully renovated as needed to keep up on codes, environmental things, and keep them in good shape. This is why so many buildings were under construction–they must be! Buildings aren’t allowed to be run down, the owners of apartments must chip in and do renovations, even moving out for 6-12 months while it is happening, but as a result the buildings stay in better shape, have the latest fire and safety codes, and use energy efficient systems and have modern conveniences. If there are historical features of significance they must be maintained, however. This is probably more complex and controversial than we were told about, but fascinating nonetheless!
The Academic Bookstore designed by Aarvo Aalti, a well known Finnish architect. It was a really cool building!
The library was fascinating: the architecture was terrific, I just didn’t get any good photos, so google it. It is far more than what you might think of as a library. This picture above shows the musical instruments you can borrow. There were rooms to use for meetings that anyone can reserve, recording studios, practice spaces, 3-d printers, all kinds of machines to use, places to just sit and hang, clubs to join on almost any subject or hobby you might have, and a full cafe and restaurant.
Our tour ended at the library and we said our thanks for a great morning. It was really a good one, and we learned so much more about Finland than we might have otherwise. Emet had said he often ate lunch at the library cafe, so we decided to do the same. It was a buffet (surprise!) and was good enough. There was a really nice beet soup, even though I ended up spilling it on the buffet line by accident…oops!
After lunch we did more walking! I wanted to visit the Moomin shop and a grocery store, so we did a little shopping and then headed back to the Esplanade (which is a lovely street with a park down the middle, I should go back and add that but I’ll just leave it here instead) and then we ended up by the water and checked out the scene there as well.
The grocery store had a large display of salty licorice, so Louie bought a few things.
We had dinner reservations at a restaurant called Grön. My sister Carrie had recommended it, saying it had been the best meal she had ever eaten in her life, so I thought, well we have to go. It was super close to our airbnb as well, so it seemed like fate.
The reservation said to not arrive early or late, so after we relaxed at the airbnb for a little bit and got cleaned up and packed for the next day’s adventures, we headed out as precisely as we could. We got there just at 8 pm, and waited in a short line to be seated.
The meal was really great! All of the restaurant was seated at 8 and we all got the same courses. It was a very different vibe than Punk Royale, haha, and was in fact a place that Punk Royale was “punking” on, but it was great food and a lovely evening. The restaurant was very quiet and at one point Louie joked that actually nobody was allowed to talk. We were especially tickled by the fact that the silverware was in a drawer inside the edge of the table, and we didn’t realize that until after a few course. We ended up having silverware left over and must have done something a little bit wrong, and then I used a steak knife on my dessert instead. It was a bit of an inside joke, but I can’t explain it very well here! I’ll try though: we realized that should have used slightly more silverware for some courses and had taken it too literally at one point to mean that each course required one utensil. We had a spoon with a dessert and I kept having issues so I thought, aha, I’ll grab this extra steak knife to push food onto the spoon, which worked surprisingly well. As the server took the plates away, she laughed and said “classic silverware choice”. Louie wanted to do something like that again for the next course, but we FORGOT! and ended up leaving the remaining extra silverware in our drawers, sadly. He did say it was his biggest regret of the trip, not using all the silverware for another joke.
Notice there isn’t any silverware on the table–this is before we even knew about the drawers.
And…dessert. Everything in between was good too.
Then we headed back…the next day would be an early start, and we were likely already behind on sleep. Such was the trip at this point, full of delicious food, light on sleep!
We left off on Stockholm, getting on an overnight ferry to Turku.
We arrived to the ferry terminal earlier than needed, and we did have to check in in person rather than online: I think it was because we had a room on the ferry and needed to show our passports. It’s worth noting that you don’t have to purchase a room on the ferry, but we did, and I got one with a window, though the lowest room in that category.
We finally boarded the ship and found our room quickly. I probably should have taken more pictures, but this is what you get.
There’s a small couch with a bed on each side that folds down. There is also a small bathroom with a shower. We dropped off our things and headed up to the top deck to look around.
We had some great views of Stockholm as the ship left the port.
I’d made a dinner reservation: everybody said the buffet was worth doing, but for some reason on our sailing I was unable to reserve it. We might have been able to walk in, but I worried there were a bunch of tour groups (likely, based on what we saw in check-in) and instead reserved a window table for the restaurant. It did not disappoint!
We had a four course meal for a set price, which was fairly reasonable for this sort of thing, and while we weren’t directly by a window, we were very close and had a terrific view of the front of the ship, the bow. (At first, I was annoyed that we weren’t closer to the window as you pay extra for that, but we quickly realized it was a great table and we really loved the view.)
The servers were friendly and attentive, and we enjoyed a better than expected meal!
One of many desserts involving fresh strawberries we enjoyed during the trip.
We went to bed after that: the beds were surprisingly comfortable! I only wish we could have had more sleep.
Day 12:
One downside of trip: we would arrive in Turku at 7:30 am. I had mistakenly imagined this meant we would roll out of bed around 7 and quickly get ready. No, the ship told us to be ready for housekeeping by 6:30 am and announcements started before that! So I woke up to shower (I had been too tired to do so the night before which would have been smart) and Louie watched through the window as we navigated the Turku Archipelago. We got takeout coffee and croissants from a cafe onboard and waited in our room until it was time to get off the ship: housekeeping did come by to collect the linens but otherwise we were able to sit and wait.
A view of the Viking Glory as we were getting off the ship. Our room was in the level just below the life boats.
It was a mad house when we got off the ship, but I knew we needed to catch a bus in order to get to our hotel. We didn’t think we would be able to check in, but we wanted to drop off our suitcases first. We lucked out and a bus arrived shortly after we landed (or they just arrive often) and people were loading on. I had researched to learn that buses in Turku could be “tap to pay” which meant you could just tap your card. Louie tried but it didn’t work and the bus driver kept talking to him, but in Finnish which of course we didn’t understand. Finally we realized the reader was broken and he was saying, forget it, just get on the bus and stop holding up the line! So our first bus ride was free.
We got off the bus by Turku Market Square and walked to our hotel from there. It was all very exciting and strange at the same time: here we were in a new country, but we had just spent over a week in Sweden, so things were both similar and different, all at the same time, and we didn’t quite know how they were different. Finnish is definitely a more different language than Swedish. Swedish is a germanic language and so if you know German (or if you have been studying Norwegian on Duolingo for over a year) the grammar makes a lot more sense and you can pick out words that are familiar. Finnish, on the other hand, is really completely different. I did use Duolingo to try to learn some Swedish and Finnish, and really did not learn much of anything useful for Finnish other than learning how to say thank you and learning the word for coffee. The grammar is very complicated and I just found it all very confusing.
In any case, we were staying at the Centro Hotel and found it easily, but it was too early for check in. They offered to store our bags and told us the room would be ready by noon (rather than the advertised 3 pm, so we were thrilled by that.)
The Aura River, which runs right through Turku.
What I was most excited to see in Turku was the Luostarinmäki Handicrafts Museum, an open air museum of old buildings, but a specific group of buildings that had NOT been destroyed in the Great Fire of 1827.
Interesting facts about Turku: many things are written in Finnish and Swedish as both are official languages in Finland. It used to be the capital of Finland until the Russians moved the capital to Helsinki in 1812. And it is Finland’s oldest city! Rick Steves did not think Turku was worth a visit, but I can tell you that it absolutely is, and we would happily have stayed two nights, but one was all we had.
The houses in the museum were laid out in the blocks like they had been originally–the buildings are original though things were added to the insides to make a cohesive story and cover many different people and professions. I absolutely adored this museum, though we were on the struggle bus with exhaustion: in addition to having to get up early, we did lose an hour with the time change, and it just felt like jet lag!
Some of the houses had actors in them to answer questions and tell you about how people lived. One was a violinist!
We thoroughly enjoyed visiting the buildings and learning about Finnish history and culture, and I even bought a book about the museum. We probably spent three hours there, including a fika break (which I suppose wasn’t fika as we weren’t in Sweden anymore) but if we hadn’t been so exhausted, we could have spent several more hours. It was terrific.
Outhouse time!
However, it was time for check in and a nap, so we did that for a bit. The hotel was great, and our hotel was the largest we stayed in the whole trip! After a nap and freshening up, we headed out again and this time to the Sibelius Museum, stopping by the Turku Cathedral on our way. We had a quick buffet lunch at a popular looking place, Unica Kolma on the way, which ended up being seemingly popular with college students and was kind of weird. But it was reasonably cheap and healthy (salads, tofu dish, breads, coffee for around 12 euros) and we didn’t regret it. We didn’t know at the time but we do now: Finns love their lunch buffets. Did I take a picture, no evidently not. No matter how many pictures I take of things, it is never quite enough when I sit down to blog!
We visited the Turku Cathedral, pictured above, and popped in for a bit as well.
The Sibelius Museum was interesting but small. Sibelius wasn’t connected to Turku himself, but a collector of instruments was, so there are some nice displays, some instruments, and evidently a large archive of recordings and books for scholars.
After we finished there we decided to see one more museum and headed to the Aboa Vetus museum, which houses a modern art museum and an archeology museum. We opted for the archeology, and learned about what existed below the museum from the past, which tied in nicely to what we had learned earlier in the day as well.
Our next stop was a concert, part of the Turku Music Festival. It was a singing and kantele concert, lullabies, evidently. The kantele is a traditional Finnish instrument and I thought it would be really neat to hear.
Unfortunately, the concert ended up being more of a lecture recital, and the lecture was…in Finnish! So we didn’t enjoy it as much as we might have, though the music was nice. It was evidently a very interesting and funny lecture, but we missed most of it. Louie was surreptitiously trying to use google translate to translate things which led to some occasional understanding and more often hilarious misunderstandings. The concert took place in an old hospital called the Heideken House, which used to be a maternity hospital, it seemed.
Luckily the concert was just under an hour, and we happily headed to our dinner reservation at Mami.
We enjoyed lovely weather and sitting outside near the river while enjoying some delicious food. Louie and I created our own four course menu by choosing a salad to share, two entrees to share (and asked for them to come out separately) and a dessert. It was a lovely evening and a delicious meal! I know I say that a lot on this blog, but it really was. I don’t recall exactly what we ate: some sort of beet salad, a vegetarian entree, a fish entree, and a dessert with strawberries and other things. It was really quite good–I found quite a few amazing restaurants on this trip, and I would highly recommend all of them.
Day 13:
We slept REALLY well, and woke up the next morning ready to face the day again. Our hotel offered a breakfast, which was very good, though not as good as our Gothenburg hotel breakfast. There were some similarities and some things that seemed unique to Finnish breakfasts. Our plan for the morning was to visit Turku castle, and then check out of the hotel and head to the train station. We caught a bus to the castle (the card reader worked this time, unfortunately, haha!) and got there just before it opened.
We didn’t really have time to see everything at the Castle, but we saw quite a lot and it was all very interesting. We felt fully immersed in the history of Turku at this point, and considered ourselves basically experts by now.
Where the King did his business.Louie tried on some chain mail. It was HEAVY!Oh look at the fireplace! This was in the more “modern” wing.
We had to catch a bus back to the hotel, then check out and catch a bus to the train station. The main train station in Turku was under construction (or more specifically, a bridge to the main station) so we had to leave out of a different station, which was easy enough to get to via bus. The station was smaller and had less food options, but we did get a few things to take on the train with us.
And here we are, on the train! We were sad to leave Turku as it was definitely a rushed visit, but we were excited to see Helsinki. The train ride would be around two hours and I was also excited to sit down for that amount of time, haha.
I’m taking a break from writing about our trip to just writing about my life right now. I’m sure you’re disappointed 😉
September is shaping up to be BUSY. I got asked to play a wide variety of concerts: several on the violin, one on the baroque violin, one on the viola! So there’s a fair amount of “I really should practice” going on, some actual practicing, and then setting up rehearsals, adjusting some students, that sort of thing. I added a chamber music coaching to my responsibilities at Wash U, and I added it on Wednesday evenings, which means that suddenly I am a night person rather than a morning person. I left the music school at 10 pm the other night and was somehow surprised by how busy it was! I also had to teach a makeup last night until 9:30 pm…and I wasn’t even that tired! My alarm didn’t go off until 8 am this morning and it was glorious.
Seriously, after teaching for 4 years in a job (which wouldn’t even have started up yet, but still) which required a 5:30 am wakeup on 4 days a week, not doing that is still a real treat. I will miss aspects of the job, but NOT the morning wakeup. I can freely add things to my evenings and nights without worrying about getting an appropriate amount of sleep, and it’s really relaxing.
The cats can never get enough of Louie. Me, they tolerate. Him, they absolutely love. For Muriel, I suspect it is partly because he does NOT play the violin, and she detests the violin. For Miles, well, they are special soul mates and that’s just how it is.
Monday we biked from St Charles to Machens on the Katy Trail, about 13 miles each way. It was probably the last long bike ride I will manage before our biking/canoing trip in mid-October, but we will get some shorter ones in. I don’t have any more days off until after that, but I do have some days with less things on them.
Sometimes I wonder if we are doing things wrong…other friends without children seem to have a lot more free time! I think often people think that if you don’t have kids that means you will have a lot of free time, and it definitely depends on what you do for your job. If you have jobs like us, which take up so much time (especially seasonally) you still end up being quite busy! I have thought maybe I should do a whole post on not having children, and perhaps I will someday soon. I wouldn’t say that my life looks exactly how I thought it would when I was a child, but whose does? I am not regretful about it in any way, and I love having so many worthwhile (to me at least) things that I do.
Sometimes I day dream what it would be like to have a “regular” 8-5 job, but I know if I did I would just fill my evenings and weekends with music activities. There’s no way for me to not be a musician! On the rare nights that I am done early, like 5 pm, which happened here and there over the summer, it was funny, because we didn’t even know what to do with ourselves! And then sometimes we would just go to bed really early, which was pretty nice anyway, because so much of the summer felt like I was just catching up on sleep and trying to get back into a more normal sleep routine…but it wasn’t like I suddenly had all these hours free, they just went away anyway. I’m sure some people have more interesting hobbies that take up their evening hours (my friend April does aerial silks and plays the flute in addition to biking, hiking, etc) but certainly many people just watch more tv.
Anyway! Louie and I have Saturday evening off together and we may go out to see some live music Saturday night, and we also need to watch The Whale for our movie group. We also have a bike ride planned, in addition to our work: for me a few rescheduled lessons, a concert tonight, a wedding tomorrow, and a church service Sunday morning and rehearsal in the evening. This is September!
Day 9: Sunday morning we slept in a bit: it’s hard to maintain a sightseeing pace for so long, even though we tried! People recommend taking easier days or taking days off, but we struggled with that because there were so many things we wanted to do! But Sunday we ate some food at the apartment before heading out in the very late morning to see Millesgården. It required a train and a bus to get there as it was on the outskirts, or perhaps more accurately, was in a suburb.
By the time we got to Millesgården we were hungry for lunch, so we at the cafe first. Overall, we found museum cafes to be really tasty and good/easy places to eat.
Carl Milles was a Swedish sculptor, and Millesgården was his home. The museum contains a sculpture garden, the house, another house, and various other things. It’s a great place spend a few hours and get away from the crowds.
Milles was the artist who did the Poseidon statue in Gothenburg, and there was a copy here.
After we finished at the museum, we stopped by a grocery store before catching the bus back. It’s always so much fun visiting grocery stores!
We decided to take the train to Södermalm next as we hadn’t explored that island much at all. We had a coffee and snack, and then walked around just taking it all in. People describe Södermalm as the “trendy” part of town, comparing it to Brooklyn. Those people had not been to Brooklyn as recently as we have, I think.
Eventually, we had a beer at a bar along a busy street. (Vague, I know.) And then decided to get dinner at the recommended Restaurant Pelikan. We didn’t have a reservation so they seated us in the bar area, which didn’t seem as fun (and less busy) as the main restaurant, but we still enjoyed our experience.
I’ve been eating a lot of meatballs for somebody who doesn’t really eat meat, but I had to have a further comparison to the earlier ones! These were delicious as well, possibly better. Louie loved his meal too.
After dinner we walked back to Gamla Stan, stopping along the way at a place where you can ride an elevator up many floors to an overlook.
Day 10: Kayaking Day. For Monday, I booked us on an all day kayaking tour in the Archipelago. People said you needed to get out into the archipelago, and I found a nice kayaking tour where you drive out a bit and then kayak. We met our group in the morning in…Södermalm again. We went with Green Trails. There were 7 of us plus the guide, and we piled into a large van for the drive out first, which took about 30-40 minutes.
We got to the location where the kayaks were stored and started loading up. Louie and I would share a double and chose carefully what to bring with us and what to leave in the van. We all had to carry our kayaks a little ways to the dock to get started. Stevie, our guide, was very helpful and gave us advice and instructions, and before too long, we were off, paddling /kayaking in the Baltic Sea!
Right before getting started.
It was a really nice day. We paddled for awhile, stopping here and there to chat/catch our breath, and finally stopped at what we thought was an island, but actually was attached to the mainland. Nonetheless, it was lovely. We all took a little hike through the woods to a viewpoint, and then back to the water to relax while Stevie prepared lunch for us all.
Louie was brave and went swimming, but I just waded a bit.
After lunch, we packed up the Kayaks again and paddled around some more and finally back to the place we started. It was great fun and a wonderful day! We finished as we started, back in the van, and then back to their store front.
We had dinner reservations at the oldest restaurant in the world, Den Gylene Freden. Or perhaps at least one of the world’s oldest restaurants. I had made reservations in the “Vaults of Old Town” which was their lower level.
First we had to walk around a bit more and explore parts of Gamla Stan we hadn’t seen yet.
A runestone!
The restaurant.
We had a terrific meal. It was traditional food, so of course I wanted to try the meatballs. We had a server who really got us, and was helpful in suggestions and humor. At the end of the meal we wanted to try some Akvavit since it was our last night in Sweden, and he helped us choose ones that we would each like. It was a fun dinner and wonderful end to a great day! I know I say that a lot on the blog here, but it was true. We were having a terrific time.
Our Airbnb at night
Day 11: Our last day in Stockholm (and in Sweden). We had to vacate our airbnb, but we were able to leave our luggage in a stairwell, because that evening we were catching a ferry to Finland.
We finished up the breakfast things we had at the place and finished packing up and then headed out for our last day of sightseeing. We walked around the Royal Palace outdoor area first.
Louie purchased a royal palace yo-yo and posed with it a few times.
We decide to branch out from Swedish food for lunch and had food at Ima Street in Ostermalm. It was delicious!
With princess cake for fika
Then we went to the Swedish History Museum for the rest of the afternoon and learned about, well, the history of Sweden. Vikings, etc. It was a nice museum, and we used the audiotour for much of it, which slowed us down but also gave extra information.
A very old organ. Very old.
We walked back to Gamla Stan and got one last fika at Cafe Schweizer.
Then we collected our bags and took the bus to the ferry station. We had booked an overnight ferry from Stockholm to Turku, with dinner onboard. We really got there too early: I was feeling stressed about the arrangements and the unknown so we probably left 45 minutes early than needed (or more) and ended up just having to wait at the ferry station, which was not as nice as I imagined it would be. Oh well!
I’ll leave off there for now, and the next blog post will cover the ferry and our time in Turku, Finland, which, by the way, regardless of what Rick Steves said, we found to be a super cool city and really enjoyed. Then again, we were enjoying it all!
Day 8 was a busy day! Ever since we went to the Norwegian Folk Museum in Norway the other year, I’ve become obsessed with the idea of open air museums, and this was the first on our itinerary, and also the first one, as in, THE first open air museum. (It should also be noted that I loved going to Sauder Village as a kid which is in the same vein, I suppose.) While crafting our itinerary I decided we should start the day with the nearby Vasa Museum, which everybody said was amazing, but could get crowded, plus it opened earlier.
We started our day with breakfast at Skeppbro Bakeri (again!) because it was good and was also near the ferry we wanted to take to the island of Djurgarden, our destination for the day. You could get there another way, but the ferry was fastest and seemed like fun.
I got the “breakfast buffet” (but imagine that in Swedish, I think they actually just called it frukost) which included a sandwich, pastry, juice, coffee plus yogurt, oatmeal, bread and any toppings you wanted. It was a decent deal, something like 1500 kronor if I recall, while just a sandwich and coffee would set you back 900 kronor. They had a nice sandwich roll with sliced hardboiled egg, mayo type sauce, caviar, and lettuce. We enjoyed watching the sea and the birds, and then finally headed over to the ferry to ride to Djurgarden.
The ferry is part of the regular transportation system so you can use the SJ app to buy tickets.
The ferry arriving for us.
Us, on the ferry. We sat inside because we were tired and it was quite sunny.
The ferry ride was quick and uneventful and then the whole boat got off at Djurgarden, near the amusement park called Gröna Lund. We walked over to the Vasa Museum and went straight in: I had prepurchased tickets online that morning, so we skipped the ticket line, easy peasy. The museum was already pretty crowded at whatever time it was, probably 10 am ish.
The museum is all about this one ship, called the Vasa, which was really elaborate, built in 1628, and capsized pretty much right away, though sadly a lot of people died. The whole thing is tragic and really crazy. In any case though, because of the waters that the ship sank in, it stayed fairly intact for centuries until it was finally raised up in 1961, and then the museum was built in 1990. The museum houses the ship, with lots of displays about the ship, all the parts, information about the people on the ship, etc. It’s quite fascinating, and we spent about 2 hours there…probably could have spent longer, but we felt like we had gotten a fair amount of information at that point and we had made it through most of the exhibits.
In case you were wondering! And yes, you can see them, and yes, they are just boxes without bottoms. Very comforting. (Very demure).
After we had filled our brains with Vasa information, we left to walk to Skansen, nearby. It was oddly hard for us to figure out the best to get there, possibly because there were supposedly a few entrances, but actually more exits than entrances…we found our way eventually and got there around 1 pm, and immediately decided we needed to eat lunch.
We chose Restaurant Gubbhyllan, right near the entrance, and I ordered an interesting potato and herring dish. It was very Swedish and I enjoyed it. After our lunch, we started exploring.
Oh, look, we also had cinnamon rolls! Kanelbullar.
Skansen was somehow closer together than we expected: all the buildings and houses were crammed together in places. It was overwhelming and really terrific all at once. Some of the houses/buildings had people in them dressed up in period clothing who would answer questions and talk about the house and the time. We walked all over, and ended up staying just past 5 pm, when the houses started closing and the people in them leaving.
The Mechanical Engineering ShopThey were dancing a traditional dance with a live band under the shelter behind.This was for grain storage, but it made me think of Baba Yaga’s House on Chicken LegsThere was a zoo with reindeer and other arctic animalsNothing makes me happier than houses and buildings with grass roofs!A busy street with all the various stores on it.Me, riding a Dala horseWe even found a rune stone!Those same cool stoves that they had at the palace! I imagine somehow not quite as nice (definitely more run down looking.)You could even play this piano! It was out of tune.
We found our way out a little after 5, like I said, and we had 7:30 dinner reservations, so we decided to just keep moving.
We walked from Djurgarden to Ostermalm where we stopped in for a snack and a drink at A Bar Called Gemma. It was lovely to sit and we enjoyed our drinks.
We ended the night with dinner and live jazz at the Glenn Miller Cafe. It’s a french restaurant with live jazz, and they really cram you in there, plus it’s quite small to begin with!
We had a lovely dinner with mussels–we actually ended up sitting by a couple who were from Paris and said the food was very good/authentic in their opinion. After we finished dinner the jazz was starting: we enjoyed 3 sets of music by the Dölerud Johannsen Quintet, with Dan Johannsen (the Swedish version of the name Don Johnson, really, which delighted Louie to no end) on trumpet. It was a thoroughly enjoyable evening, a great end to a long and full day.
Notes: you have to reserve for dinner if you want a table, and each set is charged separately: we chose to stay to the end but could have left earlier. They said you needed cash, but we were able to add the set tab to our bill–it was quite reasonable for the live music.
Afterwards, we walked back to Gamla Stan and fell asleep very easily! My feet were killing me and I was exhausted.
22, 543 steps and 9.13 miles walked, but there was a lot of museum style slow walking which can be extra tiring.
