Category Archives: Travel

New England Road Trip Part 2: Heading to Vermont

Though our Road Trip really started in Chautauqua, the numbering should start here.

Day 1: Bennington, Vermont

After leaving Chautauqua we headed for the New York Turnpike headed East. One thing to note: since we are from Missouri where nothing is a toll road, we decided to get a transponder to use for the toll roads in the east. I discovered that Illinois has a system you can use called I-pass which also works with EZ pass so I signed up for that and loaded money and they sent me a sticker for the car. I decided to use the Illinois system since we live near Illinois and I thought it might come in handy in the future for possible driving in Illinois as well, but if you are headed east, you should definitely look into something, because there are a lot of toll roads and there are no booths.

But truthfully, we don’t know if our pass worked in New York, and to this day, we still don’t know. More on that later, but anyway. We drove for a few hours to our first stop, the Harriet Tubman National Historical Park in Auburn, New York, which is a newer park.

The google directions were a little confusing, so I would recommend actually not using them and probably using directions from the actual site or the NPS app, but that’s what we used, so first we actually ended up at the Harriet Tubman Home for the Aged, which is part of the park, but just a closed building.

And another home which Tubman lived in at a later point in her life.

But then we found a better address and found the Visitor’s Center, where there was a friendly cat who lived nearby, so Louie immediately made a new friend.

The park consists of a few places: the home we saw first, which is being restored, and then the visitor’s center and the church next door, which is the church where Tubman went and then was where her funeral was held. It was interesting because the church was just in a residential neighborhood so you parked on a street–it made me wonder how the neighbors felt about all of this! But it probably made their property values better, so hopefully they like that. Or maybe they dislike the traffic.

It was also interesting to see how the parks come into being, meaning, how the parks service takes a place and restores it. The church was in the process of being restored to how it looked before, because it was a little rundown and they want it to look as it was when Tubman went there. And the house she lived in–we peeked inside and could see that it was being restored, and somebody had been redoing the walls, but with NEW plaster and lathe, which, if you know anything about construction, is not how modern construction is done, but IS how old construction is done. So that was quite fascinating.

The rangers onsite were friendly and full of information, as you would expect, even as they were telling us much of the restoration was stalled due to lack of funding–just as the park was founded as a park, they lost funding due to the current administration.

Then we went to the nearby cemetery to see Tubman’s final resting stop.

I have to confess, before this trip I hadn’t been into cemeteries and seeing where people were buried, but somehow this trip I started thinking about how it was kind of fascinating to think about: right here, right under here is where this person might actually BE. Though truthfully they probably aren’t really there and have probably shifted further away over the years, but there is still something to think about it that in the past I hadn’t thought about that much. That their physical bones are there, that they really existed. I don’t know why, but that never interested me before and then it suddenly did.

We were hungry after this so we found a Thai restaurant nearby with a high rating, called Spoon and Fork, so we had a quick lunch there and then kept driving.

We had about 3 1/2 more hours to drive, but once we got off the interstate highway, the drive became more interesting and more scenic. We didn’t enter Vermont until very close to Bennington, though! Once you get to Vermont, there aren’t any billboards, did you know? That’s a state law, evidently.

Our goal for the first night was Bennington, Vermont, and we got there around dinner time. It looked like a really cute New England town, exactly what you might daydream about if you had seen a commercial for a generic New England town. We checked into the Catamount Motel, which was the cheapest highly rated motel I could find, and it was perfect.

We decided to set off on foot for the rest of the evening, so we walked to the downtown area for dinner, and enjoyed food at the Madison Brewing Company.

A Catamount!

A Moose!

We shared a tasting at the Madison Brewing Company and had some good food as well. After dinner we took a walk around the town, which was older than we were used to things being in the US.

And then we had another drink at the Harvest Brewery company before bed.

Day 2: Driving Route 100 to White River Junction, Vermont

We had coffee and muffins in downtown Bennington and did a quick drive by of the Bennington Monument and Robert Frost’s Grave before heading out of town.

We had a little trouble finding Frost’s grave because we entered the cemetery from the wrong entrance. One entrance had terrific signage and it would have been easy but we used the wrong sign. It was a beautiful cemetery either way, and a beautiful morning. The grass was wet and dewy, and the air was cool and crisp. It felt like fall and it was only August 2.

We got in the car and headed towards Wilmington Vermont, where we planned to find Route 100 and drive north on it. It was a scenic route and we planned to drive it and stop where the wind took us. We also had an app called “guide along” we would listen to that might make suggestions. We stopped in Wilmington for a coffee and stroll as well, and ended up buying a beautiful wooden cheese board (small cutting board, basically).

It was probably mid morning by the time we actually got onto Route 100, but whatever. We figured we only had a few actual hours of driving (maybe 3? it was hard to actually figure it out because the route we were planning was not the best/most direct route, but instead the most scenic, so the map would always try to reroute us).

We saw a farmer’s market and stopped, got a loaf of bread and petted some goats.

And we saw our first covered bridge!

This was the longest one in Vermont: you could not drive through it but you could walk across it.

After the bridge we went on a bike ride in Jamaica State Park–we’d brought the bikes so we wanted to make sure to use them!

Back in the car after that and on the road–we came to a screeching halt and turned into a shop called “Grandma Miller’s pie shop.” I said, well I had a Grandma Miller but she didn’t really make pies!

I can never turn down something with rhubarb or strawberry rhubarb though, yum!

Our next big stop was the Vermont Country Store. You guys. You know the place that sends the catalogs, right? And we thought, oh this will be a big tourist trap, and while, yes, it was, it was ALSO a really nice store, well curated, well set up, nicely organized, with good space, and it was a lovely shopping experience. We had a nice time, bought maple syrup, etc. Definitely worth a stop, and then afterwards we had maple cremees which are basically Vermont’s soft service ice cream in a maple flavor, a must try when you are in Vermont.

(You actually go in the back though)

I forget where we took this picture, but it was fun.

Another big stop we made was at the Calvin Coolidge State Historical Site. We visited near closing time so we decided to skip the indoor exhibits and just visit the outdoor exhibits and the cheese factory (FREE CHEESE SAMPLES, and we also bought cheese), and really enjoyed that. It was basically an open air museum, which Louie and I have discovered is one of our favorite kinds of museums.

We got to see where Calvin Coolidge was born, where he lived growing up (basically the same place) and where he was when he was Vice President and then President William Harding died in office, and Coolidge had to take the oath of office and become President of the US–all basically within a few houses of each other. And then we drove a short distance to see where he was buried.

A fairly unassuming grave.

After that, we headed to our hotel for the night, that was a bit of a diversion from Route 100. I found that to get a nice hotel for a decent price we needed to divert, so we headed east to White River Junction to stay at Hotel Coolidge (perhaps fitting?) which was a historic hotel there. We checked into our room and then ate at a nearby restaurant called Tuckerbox which served Turkish food.

We enjoyed the food but had a little snafu with the prices: this was a bit ridiculous: the menus we ordered from had different prices on them that what we were charged (and what were on the website) and then the server said, well, our prices went up and not all the menus reflected the changes, and showed us that some of the menus had the newer prices. Which was like, ummm, okayyyyyy. But it was nearly impossible to prove that OUR menus had had lower prices and honestly, what, you should also believe us, and so we had to pay higher prices that what we thought when we ordered (and again, also higher than what they publish on their website) so we can’t in good conscience recommend the restaurant, because that is really shady. In my opinion. And really put a damper on what was otherwise a perfectly lovely day and evening.

After dinner we took a walk and the weather was lovely, and the town was pretty cute, there were a lot of train tracks and a river and we were really near New Hampshire as well. The Hotel was “historic” which meant that the hallways were big and the hotel was big with a giant bathroom that seem like how did it get added in and you weren’t sure what was going on, but it was nice, and I would recommend it. There was a dedicated parking lot behind the building, sort of inside the block as well, and a Keurig coffee maker in the lobby with free coffee for hotel customers.

That’s where I will end this blog post. Next time, we will continue up Route 100 to Stowe, Vermont, for more cheese and some apple cider, and maybe bears, but maybe not bears.

Chautauqua Summers (Part 1 of New England Road Trip)

The only way to get through writing about summer vacation is through. Or maybe to use Chat GPT, but nobody wants that. (Or do you?)

I don’t know why it’s hard to sit down and write sometime. I want to read blog recaps of my vacation. I want to have blog recaps of my vacation. I want you to read about my vacation. But, sitting down and writing about my vacation, it feels exhausting. Probably because I’m not on that vacation anymore, I’m back working, and working is exhausting.

In fact, simply existing in this country, this world, this is exhausting. I should stop checking the news, but I find it hard. BUT.

So at the end of July, Louie and I set out on our road trip. The plan: approximately one week visiting Leslie and family in Chautauqua as we love to do in the summer and then a camping road trip through Vermont, New Hampshire, and up into Maine towards Acadia, the final destination, and then turning back and driving two days to return to St Louis.

Easy peasy, if you like driving and mosquitoes. Which we do. Except the mosquitoes.

Any good road trip starts the day before with packing. I should do a blog post on packing for a camping trip, because we have it down to a science, if by science I mean, we have a list, and then we throw everything in the car and spend the next two weeks arguing over how we packed the car and disagreeing over where everything should go, and continually losing things and finding them again. And at some point, we will try to reorganize and decide that we have done a much better job than before but really it’s only because at that point half the clothes are in the dirty laundry bag and most of the food has been eaten…but that’s not important right now.

So we loaded up and added the bikes on the back, since this was also a trip with bikes. And we hit the road by 9 am, which was the plan.

We always drive in one day to Chautauqua, which says it will take 10 hours to get there and always takes much longer, so we end up stopping for dinner near Cleveland at a Mexican restaurant right off the highway. We’ve done this for the past few years and enjoy it.

And then we made it to Chautauqua! It was late, so Luca (my nephew) was already asleep but everyone else was still up.

The next few days don’t need a day by day, so I’ll just do highlights:

Pontoon boat ride: (Or “tonpoon” as Luca said later)

We rented a Pontoon boat for an afternoon on Chautauqua Lake. It was fun to ride around and then stop, drop anchor, and do some swimming.

We attended the weekly “Sunday party” and I saw an old classmate that I hadn’t seen in over a decade, which was fun. We attended several concerts and got to see Athena in something called Air Band as well.

Louie enjoyed a Louie IPA.

We went out to dinner at Pine Junction, which is a nice place to enjoy an outdoor meal, and on the way home saw some cows on the road.

It was a fun week. Weather wise, it started out really hot and humid, which you feel there because there is no A/C. By the end it had cooled off a little. It was great to see the kids, and I definitely felt a bit sad leaving, especially because I wished I had spent a little more time with Luca: he had camp all day and then went to bed early, so I felt like I got more time with Athena and less time with him, and the last night we went to a concert with her but left him…but it was still great to see everybody! We’ll have to get out to Phoenix this year somehow.

The kids and Peter (my BIL) were heading home for the summer since school was starting up pretty soon after we left, so it was the end for them, so it was bittersweet goodbyes all around. We loaded up the car and headed east to Vermont…

Zaandam: Ketchikan whether you can or can’t

Vancouver: Days 1 and 2: Sneaking out in the Middle of the Night

Vancouver: Days 3 and 4: Eating our way through Vancouver

Day 1 of our Cruise: The Zaandam!

Zaandam Continued: Calling on the Ports

Zaandam, Continued: To Glacier Bay National Park!

I haven’t been as good with my blog post name titles but I’m pleased with myself today, you’re welcome.

Day 6: Ketchikan

We didn’t arrive in Ketchikan until 11 am, so we didn’t have to get up too early. We had a nice breakfast and then walked around the promenade and watched the ship come into Ketchikan.

It was a bit of a line getting off the ship–I think everybody was ready to leave all at once, and we were worried we would be late for our excursion, but we made it! We were the last to arrive though, but it was fine.

We signed up for a guided hike in a rainforest with a company called Tongass Teague. Originally we signed up for a longer hike which was more difficulty, but the guide (Tongass Teague himself) had gotten the flu and wasn’t up to guiding it, so he asked if we would be okay switching to a different hike with another guide. It made the hike a larger group than normal though, which at the time I agreed didn’t sound bad, but in practice was a little annoying as some of the people were quite slow. However, the guide was great and the hike was lovely–very easy, but lovely. Not to spoil it.

We drove in two cars to the other side of the island–yes, Ketchikan is on an island, and basically, we took the road to the end, and then parked and got out and walked. It was raining a bit, to be expected, because Ketchikan basically gets more rain than anywhere else in Alaska, with over 140 inches of rain per year. But it wasn’t raining hard. so it was fine with a rain coat and a hat. The hike was gorgeous, lush, all of that which we were growing to expect but also not expect, because, Alaska!

We basically hiked the entire time along this creek which was called Lunch Creek. We only hiked a little over a mile before turning back, and I think Louie and I would have loved to have gone further, but when you are on a cruise and need transportation and are on a tight schedule, you need a guided hike, so you do what you can.

The guide was great–I forget his name now, but he was very knowledgeable about the plants and told us a lot about them as well as the history of the area and many things like that. He said he had originally come to Ketchikan on a cruise and taken a hike with Tongass Teague and then decided to move to Ketchikan and work with him! Teague himself had been an English professor at a local university before working full time at the company. Tourism, as you would expect, is big business in Alaska.

We saw this angry mushroom. Don’t eat him, for sure.

And this weird looking slug or whatever.

At the halfway point, we stopped and enjoyed some hot tea before turning around and heading back. When we got back to practically the starting point, we then headed down to the ocean to see where the creek met the ocean.

Can you see Louie hiding?

Right there, there is where it meets the ocean!

It was a gorgeous scene! There was a campground and picnic area there. It made me want to come back and camp for awhile, though I would also be afraid of bears–when the salmon are running later in the season (not in May but later in the summer) I’m sure the bears are around.

We also saw several seals.

I believe you can see them in this photo. Maybe.

One more before we left.

Then it was back to the vans and back to the town.

After the hike, we were pretty hungry. It was cold and rainy, but I wanted to walk around town a bit. We took advice from the guide and got some food at the Alaska Fish House first. We both got fish and rice bowls with salmon, because it seemed like salmon was the thing to eat there, I think.

And then we walked over to Creek Street, which was a street built on a creek. It was pretty deserted, I guess because it was cold and rainy!

We walked up to see the fish ladder as well.

And then it was easy to find the ship! It was all downhill from there, actually. Literally.

I would say that it is possible that we went in the hot tub after that to warm up, but I don’t actually recall. Let’s put it as a strong maybe, because I was cold and wet, and that would have been very nice! Either way, you can guess what we did before dinner: watched the trio!

Dinner was fun then: it was a special “gala dinner!”

That night the ship started getting very…rocky. We were hitting some rough seas leaving Ketchikan! And it was also the night of the chocolate surprise, I believe. We went to a bar with Ben and Roz after dinner for a drink and at some point, a bunch of the staff starting walking through with trays of various chocolate goodies calling out “chocolate surprise” and giving out various chocolate goodies and making us take them! We were stuffed but tried a few things anyway: most were various cereals or nuts dipped in chocolate and were of course tasty.

Above: the room where the classical trio played.

We stayed up later than normal, but I was exhausted, and by the time I went to bed, the ship was visibly rocking and I had to hold on to the sink to brush my teeth! I suppose it helped us sleep well haha!

Elephant towel animal.

Picture outside the elevators on our floor.

Day 7: Day at Sea

We actually did sleep in a little bit, because breakfast wasn’t served until later: it was a special Alaskan brunch. I think we just got coffee at the coffee shop instead for a fee. We wanted to go walk around the promenade and look for wildlife but…it was closed due to the waves and high winds!

So we just chilled out for a bit, until we went to a program in the theater about how the ship works, something about a city within the ship, and how they feed everybody, how the water systems and electricity works, how they deal with the waste, and it was really quite interesting.

And then we went and got brunch. There were some good things and some other things we didn’t love as much, but overall it was nice. We chatted with some nice people as usual: we always met interesting people when we sat with them, though usually everybody was older and usually they had been on something like a dozen to 4 dozen cruises, haha!

After brunch, since we couldn’t walk on the promenade, we thought, well, maybe we can go in the hot tub. We weren’t sure, but we thought we would check it out. We got to the top and indeed, it seemed open. The pool deck was a bit crazy though: the pool was definitely dangerous: the waves in the pool were intense–it was unclear if it was officially closed, but nobody was in it, and that was a good idea, but the hot tub seemed perfectly safe unless you were particularly afraid of falling–the ship was still rocking but we weren’t terribly afraid of falling, and once you were seated in the tub, the waves in it were just an inch or two.

We ended up staying in the hot tub for over two hours. You might think, that sounds dangerous, but it wasn’t that hot. We were about to get out at one point but then somebody new got in and we started chatting with them and it was very interesting. It was a fun and relaxing afternoon!

After that, the waves finally settled down and the promenade deck was opened up again, so we were able to venture out.

We spent the afternoon just chilling out and of course, having to do a bit of packing. And then of course, one last evening with the trio, and we asked the cellist to join us for a drink after dinner, which she agreed.

The ship had a lot of interesting artwork.

We enjoyed our last dinner aboard the ship, and the servers sang a goodbye song as well. Then we met Annie for a drink and chatted with her about her life and life aboard the ship, and then we went to sleep.

Day 8: Headed home

We got up and had one last breakfast aboard. We did meet Ben and Roz for this as well. It was a more limited menu but still very nice. Unlike previous cruises we didn’t feel as rushed to leave and everybody was still very polite–in the past I had felt that as soon as you woke up on the last day people suddenly stopped being so kind and polite and just sort of pushed you off the ship, and this one they continued being nice until the very end. So that was great. We then disembarked and said goodbye the Zaandam and Holland America.

We found the SkyTrain and took it the Airport. We made our flight with PLENTY of time: we had a flight at noon and we had plenty of time to waste. Too much, probably, it was a boring day. But we made it home safely. And we would recommend Holland again.

Let me leave you with this moment of Zen, me eating soup on the Zaandam.

Thanks for reading!

Zaandam, Continued: To Glacier Bay National Park!

After I had gotten the bug in my head about going to Alaska, one thing I kept seeing was “get a route that goes to Glacier Bay National Park”. And I was like, how does a ship go to a National Park. Well, today we would find out.

Previous posts:

Vancouver: Days 1 and 2: Sneaking out in the Middle of the Night

Vancouver: Days 3 and 4: Eating our way through Vancouver

Day 1 of our Cruise: The Zaandam!

Zaandam Continued: Calling on the Ports

Day 5: Glacier Bay National Park. Not to be confused with Glacier Bay toilets, sold at Home Depot.

We had attended a talk the previous day I guess about what to expect at Glacier Bay, but it was still sort of confusing, but we figured we would figure it out as we went along. Early in the morning some park rangers were going to board the ship AS WE WERE MOVING and then we would be going up into the Park, and then at some point stopping, turning around, and then headed back. Very exciting. Lots to see. This was the day that people said you would really want your balcony but Louie and I figured we would just have to be out on the decks with the other commoners.

We had thought we might wake up to see the rangers board at 6 am but we did not. Oh, and that is a picture of the daily newspaper we got every night for the next day. There was also an app with all the information–even without buying wifi you could use the app and you could also use the app to message other guests on the ship.

It was a foggy morning. Louie and I started the morning walking around the promenade deck outside–it was cold and brisk, the coldest day yet.

A good view of the promenade deck.

There was a real buzz in the air, as we were in the National Park and it was to be an exciting day!

At some point, they started making announcements and talking over the speakers, pointing out interesting features and animals and telling us what we were seeing. Everything was so large and some things were very far away, it was nearly impossible to understand the scale of things. A mountain might seem small and right near you and then you would realize that was actually over a mile away, or more. We would look with binoculars and realized we were looking at tiny specks that were Dall sheep.

It’s kind of hard to tell, but this was the first glacier we saw.

As we got further into the park, we slowed down and the water definitely changed quality: it looked much more icy. Unfortunately the weather wasn’t that clear, it was cloudy and a bit rainy.

Look, a glacier! And look at the color of the water at this point. It was surreal. This was Margerie Glacier, I believe.

We ran into Ben and Roz on the bow. It was crowded out there, and that’s where they started serving pea soup, which was a highlight of the day. Then it started raining, cold rain, and people started scattering until Louie and I were practically the only ones left.

It looked like you could reach out and touch it, but it was still over a mile away. The captain opened up the bow of the ship so we could go out and see from the front. He stopped the ship and we slowly turned around 180 degrees.

If you squint, you can see there is a seal on the ice floe in the middle of that photo above.

This looks different, so it must have been the Johns Hopkins Glacier.

Anyway, we started heading back south again after all of that, and eventually we went in to eat lunch, which I sort of regret in a way, because the water was looking so amazing and then by after lunch it was looking normal again, but oh well, it was also late in the day and either way we were heading south, lunch or no lunch!

Somebody was out in a sailboat!

And then we watched the park rangers leave the ship. They got onto a smaller boat, while the ships were moving. It was fairly exciting.

After that we decided we needed to warm up a bit so we hit the hot tub for a bit before our classical trio concert and dinner. Tonight’s dinner would be a bit different: we were going to the specialty restaurant called Morimoto by the Sea.

Louie ate an entire fish! The meal was nice, but we ended up feeling like it was overrated. We definitely overordered, and some things were very good and others not as much. In retrospect we would have been happy just to go to the regular dining room and saved the upcharge, and there weren’t any windows in the restaurant, which we also missed. It was dark by the time we got out of dinner!

And thus ended Day 5, Glacier Bay Day.

One more Blog Post to go. I’ll finish up my next post with Days 6 and 7 and then disembarkment. If you have any questions please leave them in the comments and I’ll answer them in the next post as well!

Zaandam Continued: Calling on the Ports

Day 3: I left off with our lunch, and then it was time to get off the ship in the capital of Alaska, Juneau.

As a kid, one of the ways we entertained ourselves on long car rides was by my brother Jesse quizzing us on random trivia from the almanac. No, I’m not making this up. This was before things like “screen time” and we took some LONG road trips, so he would quiz us on largest cities and state and world capitals, so rest assured I knew my state capitals very well, at least at the time. So I knew that Juneau was the capital of Alaska, but what the almanac didn’t tell us was that you couldn’t drive there! You could only get there by plane or by ship, isn’t that crazy?

Louie and I disembarked, which was a very smooth and easy process, and we got our first look at the Zaandam from the outside–we never got a look at it in Vancouver, so this was fun for me.

We had a very short amount of time to wander before we needed to meet our van for the whale watching tour–we had booked one with Ben and Roz and we were very excited. I had not seen whales before though Louie had.

We saw a few other ships docked, including a giant one from Royal Caribbean, the Quantum of the Seas, which held over 4000 passengers and made the Zaandam look tiny. And a couple that were even smaller than ours and I assume more luxurious. (“Far more luxurious”).

Then we met our van and drove about 20-30 minutes to the dock to get our boat for whale watching. We went with Jayleen’s Whale Watching to see whales. It was a bit of a splurge, but whale watching seemed fairly expensive to begin with so I thought a small boat seemed pretty cool and we would have a better chance of seeing whales that way, and we got more time in the water with a smaller boat. I also liked that it was a woman owned company, though our guide was a man…he had a woman boss 🙂

Louie had a long lens for wildlife photos and hasn’t shared any of them with for this blog post yet, but he got a bunch of bald eagle pictures. Juneau was littered with bald eagles, we saw dozens on our drive and there was one just hanging out on top of a post at the pier.

As you can see, the scenery was just awful.

But the weather wasn’t actually great, it was a bit rainy and foggy, which did plague us all week. We managed though. As they say in Norway, det finnes ikke dÃ¥rlig vær, bare dÃ¥rlig klær! (there’s never bad weather, only bad clothing). Anyway that picture is the Mendenhall Glacier from a distance.

The sea lions liked to hang out on the buoys, apparently.

We spend the afternoon watching whales and it was quite amazing. It was five of us on the boat with the guide/driver/captain (just one person).

Anyway, iphone pictures aren’t the best, but you get the idea. Whales!

On the drive back, we saw a bear on the side of the road and watched for a bit.

We could have spent a little more time in Juneau after the tour but we were all cold and wet and decided to go back to the ship and get warmed up instead, and met up for dinner afterwards.

This picture was from inside one of the ladies’ rooms right near the dining room to show the men how fancy it was. Nice views as well!

We didn’t take off until after dinner–we could have had dinner in Juneau, but we decided to save the money and eat on the ship which was perfectly fine. I know people said the crab in Juneau was really good though, but I think we felt a bit overwhelmed by the rain and the intense tourism right by the ship, haha. We probably should have gone further in, but nonetheless we loved our whale watching tour!

And we had a great night of desserts!

Day 4: Skagway

The next day was an early start for a full day in Skagway. Louie and I were signed up for a ship’s excursion. We started with room service breakfast to get an early start.

I wanted to take it privately but the company only offered it through the ship on Saturdays for some reason, so that’s what we did. The excursion was called Chilkoot Trail Hike and Float. We met them quite early in the morning, around 8:15 am, and we weren’t sure what sort of group to expect, but it ended up just being around 6 people plus the guide, named Kat, so that was great.

We started out driving a bit, away from the town and towards the old town of Dyea and the Chilkoot Trail, which used to be a very popular route to Canada (back in the gold rush days.) This is part of why I chose this excursion, I liked the historical aspect of it as well as the opportunity to hike as well as spend some time on a raft.

Similar to Vancouver, everything was very lush, but the mountains were much bigger! Though if the skies were clearer, the snow capped mountains would likely be more pronounced. Everywhere we looked the scenery was amazing though, and you should know that my pictures don’t do this justice by any means.

Kat was a great guide, and she taught us about various plants as we went as well as making sure we were all keeping up and helping us over various obstacles. She was well trained and energetic and loved the outdoors and Alaska.

The hike was a lot of fun, and then we got to board a raft and Kat guided us down the river.

We all had to put on tall rubber boots and lift vests. Kat told us if you got water over the top of your boots it was called a “bootie” and her colleagues teased her the first few days of river raft school when this would happen to her. She was very tough: she was short and petite, but took of all us down the river in a raft all by herself. She said the rafts can hold up to 10. The group was very nice and enjoyed listening and also just observing the surroundings.

Somebody was camping in a van down by the river.

The orange is where we hiked and then the blue is the river we floated back down to, basically. When we got back some of Kat’s colleagues were there to help haul the raft out and pull it up over a bank, and they were all equally strong women and I loved it, though I also felt like a weak and pathetic women in comparison. Oh well, I have my skills, plus I am like, totally older and am somewhat strong. Definitely argumentative. They work for a woman owned company as well. We were offered hot cocoa but just as soon as Louie and I made our cocoa we were hustled onto the van so we spent the first part of the bumpy ride trying not to spill hot cocoa all over ourselves, so we would recommend against the hot cocoa, or would have asked for like, three minutes to drink it. Our only complaint about what was otherwise an amazing excursion.

We made it back to Skagway around 12:30 and we were hungry, so we went to the Skagway Brewery Company for lunch. It was crowded and super expensive–over $20 for a fish sandwich! But we enjoyed our meal, and Louie had a spruce tip ale, which is a special kind of beer they make in Skagway from the spruce tips, which can fend off scurvy.

A house of negotiable affection: there were historically many of these in Alaska.

After lunch, we went on a short hike just out of town. Yakutania Point and Smugglers Cove, which was just about 1 to 1.5 miles in length.

I think we had some of the best scenery on this short hike. It kept going further but we really didn’t have time to explore, and didn’t really know where it went either. We headed back to the town after the hike and split a pretzel and Louie tried another spruce tip beer at the Klondike Brewing Company before we meandered back to the ship to get there in time for the all-aboard. Oh, and we had a wonderful time watching a bald eagle fly around for awhile too.

In addition to the National Historical Trail there is a National Historical Park in Skagway. The Visitor’s Center was closed but we saw some of the exhibits. They mostly seemed to be centered around the prostitution at the time. I’m not certain that shows the US in a good light, should I report it to someone at the state department, does anyone still work there?

By Day 4 you start to have a great affinity for your home, the Zaandam and work hard to get a great picture with it and the mountains in the background.

And then, Louie and got showered and hurried to watch the classical trio perform. By now we also wanted to chat with the cellist to say hello as I realized both of my sisters knew her, so we had a connection (seriously, the classical music world is SO SMALL.). Which made it even more fun to watch!

Skagway was our farthest point north on this trip and as such, it was still light as we sailed away, and late into the evening.

Tomorrow would be a big day: Glacier Bay National Park!

Day 1 of our Cruise: The Zaandam!!

After I started dating Louie, I worried I would never cruise again, because I learned he was vehemently against it. He hated the idea of “sitting around on a boat.” Never mind that that’s not what cruising has to be about, but you know, people have all these ideas about what a cruise is and it’s very en vogue to hate on cruising.

Somehow though, I ended up convincing him to go on an Alaskan cruise, and here we were in Vancouver, the morning of the cruise. I think he was pretty nervous, having no idea what to expect, and I was very excited, having quite a lot of ideas on what to expect, but unsure how the Holland America Line would compare.

So, though it was Day 5 of our trip, the best way to count things from here on is to say Day 1, because the cruise started everything over again.

Day 1: Right around noon we took an Uber from the Hotel Sylvia to the Port. Since we left on a Wednesday the Port wasn’t very busy. We did carry-on only and it was very easy to board the ship. Right away everybody working for Holland was very friendly and helped point us in the right direction. It probably took about 15 minutes from getting dropped off from when we boarded the ship, though I wasn’t timing it–the lines were short and all we really had to wait in was for the metal detector line or the x ray or whatever it was, and that wasn’t too long either. It was a pleasant hum of excitement around us as everyone seemed excited to start the trip.

We had heard that Holland America skewed very old (no offense to older folks, as we love them!), so we were looking around and yes, we were probably among the younger folks, but there were others our age and younger there, along with older people. But it was also mid-May, before most schools were out, so a lot of school age families would be in school.

Anyway, soon we boarded, and we were able to immediately go to our cabin! In previous cruises this hadn’t always been the case. We also got our room keys then, they were in the door.

The room! Trick to make a ship cabin feel large: stay in a tiny Vancouver hotel for a few nights before it.

We opted not to shell out for a balcony room. The Zaandam was an older ship with less balcony rooms and they were a lot more expensive, so we went with the ocean view. We didn’t regret it: we weren’t far from the promenade deck on deck 3 where you could walk all the way around, and the only time we wished we had a balcony was (spoiler alert) Glacier Bay day when it was pouring rain and it would have been nice to pop out and see it on our on balcony for a bit, but probably not $1500-2000 nice.

Anyway, we headed up to the buffet for lunch then. It was the only place open for food and we hadn’t had lunch yet so we had to brave the buffet.

Louie was probably a bit shell-shocked at this point. It was a lot of people, and the buffet was even more. He was a little confused too, and took a bit of time to realize that yeah, you could just grab the food you saw and eat it, and just go where you wanted, and this was all fine. It was a vacation and you could do what you wanted. No rules, just right. Wait, that’s something else.

The outdoor pool. We did not spend much time here.

2654 was our room. This was a great location and I would recommend it.

After braving the buffet (Louie had a little PTSD afterwards and we didn’t go to the buffet again, but I didn’t mind as I am also not a fan of free for all or lines) we went to unpack and get settled in the room, and then we had to get our cards scanned as proof that we found our muster drill locations. It was fairly painless. And then we met up with Ben and Roz for sailaway!

Honestly, the views of Vancouver from the ship made it practically worth the cost of the cruise!

Seriously, that’s just an amazing view, isn’t it?

The cost of the champagne was possibly not quite worth it, but we enjoyed it nonetheless. And what a gorgeous day!

The ship went right under the Lionsgate Bridge! We barely had to duck at all!

And we got farther and farther away from Vancouver.

After awhile, we decided it was time to move onto other things such as continuing to explore the ship, rather than just standing on the very windy bow. Plus there was a chamber music trio to watch!

They were lovely, and the cellist mentioned she was from NYC. Again, spoiler alert, when we got back into cell service a few days later (we went dark on the ship–you can pay for wifi but Louie and I opted not to, rather we just waited for ports to use our phones, which was a nice break) we discovered indeed she knew both of my sisters. It turned out that we enjoyed watching the trio perform for a cocktail hour before dinner each evening!

Then we met up with Ben and Roz for dinner in the Dining Room, for our first night, and as we did for every night, which was one of our favorite parts of the cruise. We had a lovely table overlooking the stern or back of the ship, just one table away from the windows, so a lovely view, and our table was set up in a way that we could all see well enough but also chat with each other. We had the same server every night as well, which was really nice.

My first meal: I enjoyed everything except wished the lemon dessert was more lemony. We got to order from a menu each night: you could order anything you wanted, with most things included and some items would be extra prices. You could order salad, appetizer, main dish, dessert, or double of anything, whatever you liked. I usually ordered four courses for fun, and then we did a lot of walking, haha! but the courses weren’t huge as you can see above–the main dish wasn’t giant.

So, even without service you can see where the ship was. We were headed up the “inside passage” to the east of Vancouver Island.

I wanted to show another view of the room. I think Louie was sort of dancing to classical music here (hence the violin on the TV). We had a little couch in the room there, and then closets on the right hand side for clothes and bathroom beyond on the left. I’m taking the photo from the bed. On the tv you could also set it to watch a camera from the bow to see where the ship is headed or the stern to see where it has been, which was a fun thing to do from the room, as well as listen to a variety of music or watch movies, which we never ended up doing.

Day 2: Day at Sea: I thought we would sleep in, but Louie was too excited and woke up early. I suppose I could have continued sleeping, but he wanted to go to the dining room for breakfast, so I joined him. When you get there, they ask if you want to be seated at a shared table by the window or a table alone, so we chose shared table by the window. We were seated with some other people, and had to order quickly. After a few days we learned the breakfast menu better, but the first day it was bit confusing: you kind of know how big things are by the prices, so when there aren’t any prices, you don’t know how big things are! So I may have ordered too little, but the server suggested I add something on, and of course, nobody goes hungry on a cruise.

After ordering we chatted with the other people, and this began the day of learning that everybody else on the ship had been on at least 50 other cruises. Or so it seemed. They would say oh yes, this is my 17th time on this ship. Or, oh, no, I’ve never been on an Alaskan cruise before either! But I have been on 43 other cruises. Everybody was shocked that Louie was on his first cruise! I think maybe we met one other person who was on their first cruise. But they were all very friendly. After breakfast we wandered a bit and then hit the hot tub and relaxed there for a bit. It wasn’t super hot, but it was very nice.

We also managed to make it to lunch in the Dining Room, which I think we ate alone, and I think maybe a show on whales, then later in the afternoon we went to the Royal Dutch Tea, which was a blast. Louie also popped in to see the Polar Bear Plunge.

And then of course the Chamber Trio, and then dinner. And some walking around the Promenade, which went all the way around the deck on Deck 3 and was very lovely. Cruising with Louie meant a lot of activity, though it also meant a lot of hot tub time, and I definitely did some reading in the room as well, don’t worry! After dinner the four of us went to the show, which was “the Alans” who were a couple who did sort of mind/magic tricks and was a lot of fun.

And our room steward left us a towel animal!

Day 3: Juneau

We were getting further north and the landscape was changing. And the air was colder. We weren’t getting to Juneau until after lunch, so we had the morning free to sleep in. Just kidding, we were up early to go to the dining room for breakfast.

After breakfast, Louie went to the hot tub, but I met Roz for an origami class to fold hopping frogs.

The four of us went for lunch before disembarking at Juneau.

So, I’ll leave you there, I know, it’s a cliff-hanger, what’s next after the chowder????

Watch this space, I will try to be quicker!!