Category Archives: Travel

Morocco Uncovered, Day 3

Day 1 recap here

Day 2 recap here

Day 3: I woke up early and couldn’t sleep well. Either I shouldn’t have napped on the bus yesterday (impossible, I sleep so well on moving vehicles) or it was jet lag. Probably a combination.

I went upstairs to the rooftop restaurant for breakfast and enjoyed some nice views, fresh squeezed orange juice, coffee, and some other items. Breakfast in Morocco is a lot of bread and jam, but this hotel had a great spread overall, which made up for the room a bit.

Sunrise over my view of Meknes from the balcony.

We checked out of the hotel and went to meet our guide for a walking tour of Meknes Medina. I loved this place! I could have wandered for days through the alleys and looking at all the doors. The guide was the opposite of the day before in some ways, always fussing at us to get closer together and hurry up, stay together. He gave tons of information and was terrific.

This is my “I can’t believe I’m here and it’s just like I hoped” face.
So many cats!

I took so many pictures as I didn’t even know where to look.

More of the overly trimmed trees.

According to the whats app plan, we visited the Old gate Bab Lakhmiss, the Jewish Quarter and the mausoleum of the founder of Meknes, Moulay Ismail.

At the end of the tour they took us into a little store with some handicrafts and showed up how people made ceramics and put wiring on them to make beautiful patterns. Of course they wanted us to buy things but it wasn’t uncomfortable, just an opportunity. When in Morocco, you do these things.

We got back on the bus, next stop was the grocery store again. We got supplies for a picnic lunch and then headed towards Volubilis. Lunch was at a cafe with a nice view that sold drinks and kefta but nothing else. Some of us ordered kefta to share and we had way too much, but it was delicious. I also enjoyed a fresh squeezed orange juice as well as a soda.

The view

After finishing our lunch it was a short drive to Volubilis, a Unesco World Heritage Site and ancient Roman ruins. In Morocco, did you know the romans made it that far south? We had a really nice tour through the area. It was fascinating to see how before the Arabs, the Romans were here first.

The town of Moulay Idriss
Just hanging out on some Roman ruins. Totally normal.
The arches made it feel like home.

Fun fact: the Australians didn’t know that St Louis has an arch! I enlightened everybody with this knowledge. They asked why?

Would you like this on the floor of your house? Amazing.
Arches are great for framing picturesque towns on mountains, aren’t they?

From there we had a long drive on winding roads to Chefchaouen, our stop for the night. I should note that I took Dramamine each day when we started on the bus and if you are at all prone to motion sickness it’s worth doing. Several people felt ill on this drive, which was pretty until darkness fell.

The whole gang. I’m in there somewhere.

We got to Chefchaouen right after dark, and were amazed by our hotel: Dar Echchaouen Maison d’hôtes & Riad. It was a step up from the night before! Too bad it was already dark and we were only staying one night.

What usually happened when we got a hotel was that we got off the bus and waited a bit while somebody unloaded the luggage and our guide got the keys, then he would distribute each room based on our needs. This hotel: when we entered the gate there was a lovely courtyard, then various beautiful lobby rooms. My room was up a flight of stairs, back outside, and shared a common room with another room (which was the other single woman.) The room itself was large with a beautiful bathroom. It also had a view of the pool, which of course it was too cold to swim, but would be lovely. If you were at the pool, you could see the whole village on the hill.

But, we got settled quickly and then headed out for dinner as a group–not everybody joined but I wanted to.

Chefchaouen is known as the “Blue City”. You’ll see why. Also, our guide Aman was from Chefchaouen so he felt very at home here, and took us to one of his favorite restaurants, but first it was a walk through the medina.

This is the restaurant where we ate: Restaurant Bab Ssour.
Goat cheese and jam. Chefchaouen is known for fresh goat cheese.
Anchovy Tagine. Perhaps not for everybody but I absolutely adored this dish. It was a specialty as well.

And then it was back to the hotel for sleep. I was exhausted from sight-seeing, travel, and excitement. I will say: this was not a late night tour group. You could stay out later, of course, but I never wanted to as I was always exhausted by the end of the day, even after I was over jet lag. We were hopeful for a free morning in Chefchaouen on our own…hopeful that the weather would hold and we wouldn’t have rain! To be continued…

Morocco Uncovered, Day 2

Day 1 recap here

Day 2: Let’s go! We are in Morocco, we are touring, we are having fun!

My alarm went off at 6:30 am and it was still pitch black outside in Casablanca. I got ready and went downstairs for breakfast. I ran into Barb and Graehm again (this would become a thing, we basically became breakfast buddies as the earliest ones to get ready on the tour). I ate yogurt and some bread, juice, coffee. Nothing too exciting. I brought my bags down at 8 and then we headed out soon after.

This was the day we started traveling on our minibus, really, our home away from home for the next 10 days. I brought my backpack on board the first day, but just to let you know: I started just bringing my purse and a few things in a tote after that as the space wasn’t that big. I do wish I had brought a smaller zip up tote or something on this tour as I just used a disposable tote from a store (they give you these weird cloth feeling bags instead of plastic) for the whole tour. It worked fine though.

But the first day I had my backpack, and my suitcase (my glorious suitcase! how I love thee) was in the back of the van/minibus.

Our first destination was the Hassan II Mosque. I had seen the outside the day before, but this morning we would be going inside. It was still early so it wasn’t too crowded, just us and a few other small groups.

You can see it’s less crowded that the day before, but this picture of me isn’t as good…

We had to take off our shoes to enter the mosque and they gave us a little (cloth feeling) bag to put our shoes in and carry them around. What an amazing place! The detail in the decor is phenomenal, and the designers and builders spared no expense. The guide was excellent and we learned a lot…and I’ve forgotten a lot of it by now, but that’s the nature of the beast. We had a woman guide as well, which was quite rare for this trip.

Looking into the mosque.
A door to the outside that would only be open during certain times.
So many gorgeous tile patterns.
I think this is the door that they said was made of titanium to avoid rust.
I thought this sign was great. So fancy.

On the way out we used the bathroom which was very clean squat toilets. It turned out there might have a been a “western style” toilet as well, as I saw a line after I left, but it was nice not to wait in line, when the restroom was clean. Then we got back on the bus and headed to Rabat, after a quick stop at Rick’s Cafe, which is a replica from the movie Casablanca, which I have not seen (yet.)

Things I noticed on the drive: old buildings with so many satellite dishes on top. SO MANY. And lots of clothes hanging out the windows. I was just watching the world go by out the window and loving it.

We got to Rabat in about an hour and met a local guide there. Intrepid likes to use local guides to stimulate the economy and to provide the most authentic information.

We visited the Kasbah first. The guide had trouble keeping our group together–it was like herding cats. We were all overstimulated and didn’t want to walk around learning history, I think.

A sampling of doors, so many glorious and unique doors.

Great view over the ocean and several sides. I kept an eye out for marauders.
A cat!

We took a break for mint tea and sweets.
The group.

Then we got back on the bus and rode to the ruins of a mosque that was unfinished, the Hassan Tower, built near the end of the 12th century. There was also a mausoleum there for Mohammad V, who died is 1961. You could take pictures of and with the guards, which was sort of fun.

Me standing by the guard.
The Hassan Tower
Inside the Mausoleum.
Guarding the tomb
We saw a lot of these strangely trimmed trees throughout Rabat
Is this building screaming or just in awe?

I did feel like the guide was mostly just rushing us around for no real reason. He was nice and very knowledgeable, but there was a lot of hurry up and then wait…I might have preferred just a bit of free time and meeting up somewhere.

Lunch was at a restaurant by the river/estuary. One thing on the tour was there were some meals you had to paid for, but you would be taken somewhere for the meal. It made sense, but something to keep in mind. We ordered from a menu: I was going to order fish pastille but then they didn’t have that so I panic ordered fish tagine. It was not nearly so flavorful as the tagine the night before. It was…fine. A bit bland. And cost more than the tagine the night before. Oh well, you pay for the view.

Look at this vehicle!

We drove to Meknes next, stopping at a grocery store along the way. I love grocery stores in foreign countries, so I got a few things to snack on (lunch had been VERY late) as well as some sunscreen that I love.

We pulled up at the hotel, and I think we were all a bit disappointed by this one, the Hotel Swani. It was a bit outside of town in a grungy looking area, and while the hotel was perfectly safe and clean, it wasn’t too exciting. My room smelled of smoke and a hint of sewer, but I got the fan going and that helped. I did have a balcony, which was nice, though it was cold so I only popped out. Aman recommended we eat at the hotel restaurant and just rest, so I did that. You had to order the food first and then go up to the rooftop restaurant later. I wasn’t terribly hungry so I ordered soup and an appetizer, running into a few other tourmates when I did. We met up at the restaurant a little later and enjoyed a really tasty meal, so that was good. And then I went to bed: I was exhausted from the day and still recovering from jet lag.

View from the balcony.

Not a bad view!

Morocco Uncovered with Intrepid

Morocco: land of colors, excess, horns, arches, doorways, ceramics, and more!

Why did I go to Morocco? So many reasons, but I really wanted to travel somewhere DIFFERENT, and the pictures I’d seen made me so curious to see it for myself. I knew I needed a tour group, and did a lot of research about what was best, and ended up choosing the 13 day Morocco Uncovered trip with Intrepid Adventures, based on the small groups (maximum of 12), the itinerary, and the price. They also had great reviews, and seemed to be a very reputable company. Spoiler alert: I found everything to be true, and the tour was terrific. 13 days is a bit misleading, as they count their days the way musicians count intervals, and the 13th day is the day you have breakfast and then leave.

I hope that this series of blog posts can be fun to read as well as helpful for anyone looking to do this tour and having trouble finding information on it online! I researched very hard to see what actually happened on the tours and only found two blogs written about it, so I may be the third. In typical fashion, I will share a ton of photos with my writing and take awhile to finish recapping it (but I WILL FINISH) and I hope you enjoy hearing about my trip. If not, why are you in here??

Pre-Tour: I originally booked a ticket to fly to Casablanca through New York and then Paris. On Christmas morning, the day before I was to fly out, I got a text from Delta saying that that flight was canceled and I was rebooked for some flights the following day. Noooooo!!! I had planned to arrive 1 day early, and the rebooked flight would have me missing the welcome meeting. Not good at all. I got on the phone with Delta and managed to get a flight leaving the same day, and ultimately ended up with the same flight from Paris to Casablanca. Crisis averted.

Other pre-tour: I was planning to pack using just a carry-on suitcase, backpack, and purse I could stuff in the backpack. But then my last flight was with Air France and Air France has a strict carry-on weight limit of 12 kg, which is 26 pounds. This doesn’t seem too crazy, but when I started weighing things my suitcase weighed something like 22-23 pounds and then my backpack and purse were 10, and it was all just going to be too much. I decided I’d better just check my suitcase, and we put airtags on it and my backpack.

Sunset as the plane left St Louis–it was truly stunning!

But then my flight from Atlanta to Paris was delayed and I ended up missing that flight. No problem, I got booked on the next flight. However, this messed up my transfer with Intrepid–they were supposed to pick me up at the airport. I spent some time in the Paris Airport calling and leaving messages, unsure if I had gotten through.

I will say that I found this to be a challenge–flights get canceled and delayed all the time and it should have been easier for me to contact someone about this. I knew I could take a cab from the airport and it would be fine, but I was owed this transfer.

Anyway, when I landed in Casablanca I knew my bag wasn’t with me because of the airtag, so after clearing immigration and customs I immediately went to make a lost bag claim. Note about immigration: I somehow got the softest speaking immigration officer every, and had to ask him to repeat absolutely everything. As I stood there waiting to get my stamp I thought, hmm, if they send me back it’ll be because I just couldn’t hear this man.

(This was a quick entry into Moroccan society, haha!) The woman I was talking with about my luggage spoke English pretty well, but we were still struggling. And there was a dog barking loudly the whole time, and it was just a scene. (I also realized that lines were more of an idea and the best thing to do was just make yourself known and push your way in.) Anyway, I got a copy of the missing baggage form and then exchanged money, and needed to see if there was any chance Intrepid was there to pick me up. The answer was no, no sign of any transfer. And so then I was outside of the airport and it was fairly empty, and a few people kept asking me if I needed help, and I fended them off (because I was told that’s what you should do).

I was exhausted and it was after 10 pm Casablanca time at this point, so I probably missed a sign. I realized that I actually DID need help, and here is where I did something I shouldn’t have, but I was tired: I let a woman help me “find a cab” and then ended up that she drove me to the hotel. I was half worried that she was kidnapping me and the other half worried she was just scamming me, but she did get to me to the hotel at the agreed upon price, so I think I only ended up falling for the unlicensed cab scam and nothing more, and alls well that ends well.

I checked into the first Hotel, the Hotel Les Saisons, around 11 pm or so. Thankfully they were expecting me and had my room held, and that went just fine. Oh, and even though my suitcase was delayed, I did have all my toiletries with me as well as a change of underwear, so not all was lost. I got to the room and collapsed into bed.

The bed in my room. It was a nice enough room for two nights, the toilet worked, the shower worked, the bed was comfy, and it was almost warm enough.

Official start day of the tour:

Day 1: Casablanca. I had a day tour booked for this morning, since I was arriving early. I got up and went down for breakfast, where I met Barb and Graeme, another couple that would be on my tour. I wasn’t very hungry so I drank some coffee and juice and ate yogurt and a croissant. i talked with the hotel about my luggage and they said they would call when the office opened up.

The tour guide sent a cab to pick me up. It was raining and cold, so if you are going to Morocco in December, be aware that you will need things other than “desert wear.” After picking me up, the cabbie went to pick up another woman at her hotel. She was named Lori and was from Victoria, Canada, and we were the only two on the tour! This ended up being really fun and I was glad it wasn’t a private tour, but also it was great with just two people.

We met our tour guide Hicham outside of the Hassan II mosque. We didn’t go inside, but we got some pictures outside.

The mosque, you can see it was rainy and wet.
I’d love to remove those people from the background but don’t know how. But as you can see, it was cool and rainy, but what a beautiful place.
One more for the skies too. The Hassan II mosque with wet floor and intense skies.

We headed off on the tour, via the cab as needed and sometimes on foot: it was a walking tour mostly, but then we used the cab (the driver just waited) to get from place to place to walk around. We learned about the history of Casablanca as we went from place to place, and visited the old Medina and the new Medina.

This is me in front of the old fort for Casablanca, which is now a restaurant.
Fun street murals, and just a sense of the streets. Little cars everywhere.
Who doesn’t hug their fish like this? A picture of a mural with a woman hugging a fish.
Palm trees and little cars.

Little truck, check. Inanimate object that looks like a face, check!
Such beautiful woodwork for a random door. Who knows what is behind it?
Hashtag cats of Morocco.
I couldn’t stop taking pictures. Look at this building!
What about this door for your house?

We tried prickly pear fruit in the Medina, which left our tongues red. We walked up and down streets, and saw many more cats.

A cat sitting on a motorcycle. This was a surprisingly common occurence.
Doors, electricity, and marble.
It is important to note that I have not actually seen the movie Casablanca.
A fruit and vegetable stand in the medina
Bags of grains and who knows what.
More cats! The other woman on the tour said I’d be taking a lot of pictures if I took pictures of all the cats. Whatever. I pay for extra cloud storage.
A beautiful park.
Doors
What a beautiful entrance way to somebody’s home.
Arches, with cars.
Arches, and me.
Olives! So many olives. Did you know they are all from the same tree, just that they are different colors depending on how ripe.
Pottery. Maybe just from China, maybe from Morocco.
My first cup of mint tea. The Moroccans love a very sweet mint tea.

We ended the tour with mint tea and pastries.

the Hassan II mosque from across the sea/ocean.

My suitcase was still in Paris (thanks air tag) so the guide dropped me off at the mall where I bought a warm scarf and a pair of sweatpants to tide me over. I walked back to the hotel from there, without too many men yelling at me (the thing to do seemed to be to step in front of me and say “welcome to morocco” which was at a minimum, super annoying.) I knew I needed to eat something but my stomach felt bad–stress plus jet lag, poor combination. I ended up getting a cheese sandwich and fries at a nearby fast food style place.

I was grateful to be in Casablanca, but exhausted and a little (ranging to very) stressed out about my bag. Barb had said that morning that of course Intrepid would help, but I was unsure what they might do. Also, then I sort of hurt my ankle again walking around and luckily didn’t fall, but I was feeling like I had bitten off more than I could chew with this trip, and had some moments of doubt!

6:00 pm Time for the Welcome Meeting. It was in the hotel, and we met our guide Aman along with all the people. It ended up that it was 10 people from Australian (3 couples, 2 sets of women traveling as friends), 1 woman from Germany, and of course me. At this point my bag was “unknown” on the airtag rather than in Paris, so I thought, maybe it was on a plane. I talked with Aman and he said he would help, of course. He talked to a friend and said that after dinner we could go to the airport. We also set up a what’s app group with everybody in it for communication.

We went to dinner as a group (on our own dime, but I thought very reasonable) at a nearby restaurant. I had a chicken tagine with vegetables: note to reader, you will eat a lot of chicken tagines on this tour, so in retrospect I might have ordered something different, but it was delicious. My stomach was still funny so I figured chicken and vegetables would be good, and it was.

A tagine
The unveiling of the tagine!

The meal also came with bread and olives, which is very typical. I got terrific news during dinner, which was that my airtag was showing my bag at the Casablanca airport. Aman made some calls to determine the best course of action, and he said after we ate he and I would go in a cab to the airport. We got there and he walked with me as far as he could go–there were security checkpoints and I was only allowed past them because of my missing bag paperwork. I followed the airtag and ended up at the office from the previous night. I explained that my bag was THERE, and they went to look for it. I will say, without the airtag, I would not have known–they had not scanned it in yet, and while I’m sure they would have eventually done so, it is likely that I would have been without my suitcase for several days or longer, as they would have had to scan it, and then send it somewhere, which Aman had said would likely be to Fez, in four days, as we would be staying there for two nights.

I waited outside the office for a few stressful minutes until lo and behold, out walks the man with what can only be described as a “shit-eating grin” and my suitcase! I may have cried a few happy tears.

Now, this whole debacle cost me 600 dirham for the cab ride, and I couldn’t get a receipt to submit to insurance, because that’s not something they do, but I was incredibly relieved nonetheless. We got back close to 11 pm (the airport is a good 45-60 minutes from the hotel) and I was exhausted. I did a few organizing things as we were leaving the next morning, and went to bed. The next day would be starting on the early side, and I was happy to finally really feel like my vacation was starting.

Coming soon: day 2, maybe even more…

Happy New Year!

I know I’ve been gone for awhile, but I’m back. And wow, I had an amazing trip to Morocco. I’m not going to tell you all about it today, just a little bit, because it’s the first day back teaching, and I’ve got a bit of a cold, and I’m still getting over jet lag, so it’s all just a little bit too much.

Highlights: riding a camel, shopping in the souks (markets), meeting my fellow tourmates, the food (so much tagine and couscous but still so good!), and all the colors. I would recommend this tour to anybody (unless you are more particular about hotels, but all of the hotels were safe and clean (though some of them were sandy). Did we always have enough water pressure and reliable hot water…eh.

Travel was…annoying. And it’s great to be home, as always. I am so glad I went and I plan to do another tour in the future.

I’m on the lead camel. That means mine was the smartest and most experienced.

On other notes: how awful is the world right now? Like, it’s just horrible here in the US. ICE just shooting people and beating up people on the streets, kidnapping people regardless of their immigration status. The federal reserve chair getting investigated by a corrupt DOJ, who knows what will happen to our money…RFK making up health stuff…invading Venezuela, threatening to invade GREENLAND, there are so many things I could list but it’s just so upsetting and awful and redundant.

And then looking around and knowing how many of my fellow countrypeople AGREE with it, that’s the worst part. Or one of the worst parts. That people are like, oh this is fine. Of course most people I know don’t think that, but they are there. And that to me is just…flabbergasting. And awful. And words that I can’t even think of, because I’m just so upset. People think, oh it’s not that bad. ICE just shot a woman on video and are getting away with it, that’s how bad it is. It could be you, it could be anyone.

How do we deal with all the constant stress? It’s been ten years of stress, and what I want, what so many of us want, is a day, a few days of just not having to think about that horrible man and his enablers, his followers, just a day or more of being able to know that they aren’t doing some new horrible thing to people. But we don’t get that.

So it was nice to be out of the country. It was nice to hear a car backfire and know that it wasn’t actually gunshots. You might say, oh, is Morocco safe? Yeah, it’s safer than here. You won’t get shot on the street. The vehicles aren’t so large that people can’t see over the front of them, though they do have a lot of pedestrian deaths: probably because the way you cross the road is to just cross the road and hope they see you. You aren’t supposed to walk around alone at night, but that’s the same here. And yes, there was police crackdowns and violence at some protests, but hey, that happens nightly here in various cities and at least Morocco doesn’t pretend to be some pillar of world freedom and then murder their own citizens.

So anyway! Like I said, how do you deal with this? How do we continue to live our lives and not be angry and stressed all the time?

Thanksgiving in Clinton, South Carolina

I have the morning off and I thought, maybe it’s not too late to tell you about our trip to South Carolina.

If you are a long time reader you’ll know this, but I grew up in Clinton, South Carolina, a small town in the upstate of South Carolina, and my parents still live there. Louie and I decided to drive down for Thanksgiving, but to go from Tuesday to Saturday to avoid the worst of the traffic.

We filled up on gas at the gas station right by the big Amoco sign. You can see it was already raining a bit: this theme continued for us on Tuesday. While the morning wasn’t too bad for weather, the afternoon got worse and we basically drove the whole afternoon and evening through heavy rain. The traffic got progressively worse through the day too until after evening and then the last few hours past Asheville things cleared up both weather and traffic. People ask how long the drive is: it can range from 10 hours to much longer. I made it in about 10 hours one time on Christmas Day: no traffic (no trucks!), no stops except for gas. I think it took us a little over 12 on Tuesday, and then you lose an hour for the time change. There’s a very heavy congestion area through Knoxville and then some construction zones on I-40 through the mountains where the road was washed out last year with the horrible flooding.

Anyway, we made it in after 10:00 and chatted with my parents a bit before going to bed.

The next day we all drove in Greenville to do some sightseeing. Schools aren’t out on Wednesdays in that area of the country so it wasn’t very busy and that was nice. We walked around and enjoyed some of the sights.

My mom wanted to sit on this swing because she said it was usually too crowded.

We also went to the BMW museum outside of Greenville. They built the factory in 1992-1994 and it has really changed the area from what it used to be–there is a factory tour you can take on some days but not the day we were there (and you have to sign up in advance anyway.)

This little car was one of my favorites. They had a bunch of older cars as well as some of the very newest models. This car had only three wheels and as you can see, opened in the front. Perhaps not super safe on the highways today.

Anyway, then we headed home on the back roads in order to avoid the Thanksgiving evening traffic.

The next day we prepared a small dinner for four. It was nice!

My dad had just come back from a bike ride, hence the slightly strange outfit.

For some reason the entire jam dish is on my place mat.

The next day we visited a nearby State Historic Site called Musgrove Mill. They have a few trails to hike with signs to read.

It is not too far away, but it wasn’t a State Historic Site until after I had moved away. It was from a Revolutionary War Battle. We also drove by where the first house we lived in Clinton used to be: it was torn down and a new house built in its place: probably the new house is nicer but the old one is brick and I preferred the look of it 🙂

As usual while we were gone, our cats were in good hands with the pet sitter.

A picture of my parents’ home: it’s a geodesic dome that my father built himself. We moved in around 1991.

Anyway, it was a nice visit, very low key, and then we drove back to St Louis on Saturday morning, with mostly pretty good traffic. There was snow in St Louis that day but no problem with the roads, and the snow was all done and cleared by the time we got home. That gave us a day to prepare for the week ahead and get ready.

When I took this picture, I had been sitting on the couch wondering where the cats were and then I heard some heavy breathing behind me!

I got some Christmas decorations set up.

These penguins are new to me this year. They look cute here, but the big one can be a little creepy and seem too large in real life. I’m not sure.

Anyway, now it’s mid December, and Thanksgiving is behind us–I’m glad I finally posted about it, and honestly, that didn’t seem so hard, haha. I just needed some time to sit down with it. I’ve just been stressed out as you know and feeling like a chicken running around. But the end of the year is near, things are winding down, and did you know (did I mention?) I am going to Morocco soon? I have a trip in less than two weeks, and so some of my time has also been spent making sure I have what I need for that, and working on my packing list.

Enjoy your weekend! We are getting some very cold weather!

New England Road Trip Part 2: Heading to Vermont

Though our Road Trip really started in Chautauqua, the numbering should start here.

Day 1: Bennington, Vermont

After leaving Chautauqua we headed for the New York Turnpike headed East. One thing to note: since we are from Missouri where nothing is a toll road, we decided to get a transponder to use for the toll roads in the east. I discovered that Illinois has a system you can use called I-pass which also works with EZ pass so I signed up for that and loaded money and they sent me a sticker for the car. I decided to use the Illinois system since we live near Illinois and I thought it might come in handy in the future for possible driving in Illinois as well, but if you are headed east, you should definitely look into something, because there are a lot of toll roads and there are no booths.

But truthfully, we don’t know if our pass worked in New York, and to this day, we still don’t know. More on that later, but anyway. We drove for a few hours to our first stop, the Harriet Tubman National Historical Park in Auburn, New York, which is a newer park.

The google directions were a little confusing, so I would recommend actually not using them and probably using directions from the actual site or the NPS app, but that’s what we used, so first we actually ended up at the Harriet Tubman Home for the Aged, which is part of the park, but just a closed building.

And another home which Tubman lived in at a later point in her life.

But then we found a better address and found the Visitor’s Center, where there was a friendly cat who lived nearby, so Louie immediately made a new friend.

The park consists of a few places: the home we saw first, which is being restored, and then the visitor’s center and the church next door, which is the church where Tubman went and then was where her funeral was held. It was interesting because the church was just in a residential neighborhood so you parked on a street–it made me wonder how the neighbors felt about all of this! But it probably made their property values better, so hopefully they like that. Or maybe they dislike the traffic.

It was also interesting to see how the parks come into being, meaning, how the parks service takes a place and restores it. The church was in the process of being restored to how it looked before, because it was a little rundown and they want it to look as it was when Tubman went there. And the house she lived in–we peeked inside and could see that it was being restored, and somebody had been redoing the walls, but with NEW plaster and lathe, which, if you know anything about construction, is not how modern construction is done, but IS how old construction is done. So that was quite fascinating.

The rangers onsite were friendly and full of information, as you would expect, even as they were telling us much of the restoration was stalled due to lack of funding–just as the park was founded as a park, they lost funding due to the current administration.

Then we went to the nearby cemetery to see Tubman’s final resting stop.

I have to confess, before this trip I hadn’t been into cemeteries and seeing where people were buried, but somehow this trip I started thinking about how it was kind of fascinating to think about: right here, right under here is where this person might actually BE. Though truthfully they probably aren’t really there and have probably shifted further away over the years, but there is still something to think about it that in the past I hadn’t thought about that much. That their physical bones are there, that they really existed. I don’t know why, but that never interested me before and then it suddenly did.

We were hungry after this so we found a Thai restaurant nearby with a high rating, called Spoon and Fork, so we had a quick lunch there and then kept driving.

We had about 3 1/2 more hours to drive, but once we got off the interstate highway, the drive became more interesting and more scenic. We didn’t enter Vermont until very close to Bennington, though! Once you get to Vermont, there aren’t any billboards, did you know? That’s a state law, evidently.

Our goal for the first night was Bennington, Vermont, and we got there around dinner time. It looked like a really cute New England town, exactly what you might daydream about if you had seen a commercial for a generic New England town. We checked into the Catamount Motel, which was the cheapest highly rated motel I could find, and it was perfect.

We decided to set off on foot for the rest of the evening, so we walked to the downtown area for dinner, and enjoyed food at the Madison Brewing Company.

A Catamount!

A Moose!

We shared a tasting at the Madison Brewing Company and had some good food as well. After dinner we took a walk around the town, which was older than we were used to things being in the US.

And then we had another drink at the Harvest Brewery company before bed.

Day 2: Driving Route 100 to White River Junction, Vermont

We had coffee and muffins in downtown Bennington and did a quick drive by of the Bennington Monument and Robert Frost’s Grave before heading out of town.

We had a little trouble finding Frost’s grave because we entered the cemetery from the wrong entrance. One entrance had terrific signage and it would have been easy but we used the wrong sign. It was a beautiful cemetery either way, and a beautiful morning. The grass was wet and dewy, and the air was cool and crisp. It felt like fall and it was only August 2.

We got in the car and headed towards Wilmington Vermont, where we planned to find Route 100 and drive north on it. It was a scenic route and we planned to drive it and stop where the wind took us. We also had an app called “guide along” we would listen to that might make suggestions. We stopped in Wilmington for a coffee and stroll as well, and ended up buying a beautiful wooden cheese board (small cutting board, basically).

It was probably mid morning by the time we actually got onto Route 100, but whatever. We figured we only had a few actual hours of driving (maybe 3? it was hard to actually figure it out because the route we were planning was not the best/most direct route, but instead the most scenic, so the map would always try to reroute us).

We saw a farmer’s market and stopped, got a loaf of bread and petted some goats.

And we saw our first covered bridge!

This was the longest one in Vermont: you could not drive through it but you could walk across it.

After the bridge we went on a bike ride in Jamaica State Park–we’d brought the bikes so we wanted to make sure to use them!

Back in the car after that and on the road–we came to a screeching halt and turned into a shop called “Grandma Miller’s pie shop.” I said, well I had a Grandma Miller but she didn’t really make pies!

I can never turn down something with rhubarb or strawberry rhubarb though, yum!

Our next big stop was the Vermont Country Store. You guys. You know the place that sends the catalogs, right? And we thought, oh this will be a big tourist trap, and while, yes, it was, it was ALSO a really nice store, well curated, well set up, nicely organized, with good space, and it was a lovely shopping experience. We had a nice time, bought maple syrup, etc. Definitely worth a stop, and then afterwards we had maple cremees which are basically Vermont’s soft service ice cream in a maple flavor, a must try when you are in Vermont.

(You actually go in the back though)

I forget where we took this picture, but it was fun.

Another big stop we made was at the Calvin Coolidge State Historical Site. We visited near closing time so we decided to skip the indoor exhibits and just visit the outdoor exhibits and the cheese factory (FREE CHEESE SAMPLES, and we also bought cheese), and really enjoyed that. It was basically an open air museum, which Louie and I have discovered is one of our favorite kinds of museums.

We got to see where Calvin Coolidge was born, where he lived growing up (basically the same place) and where he was when he was Vice President and then President William Harding died in office, and Coolidge had to take the oath of office and become President of the US–all basically within a few houses of each other. And then we drove a short distance to see where he was buried.

A fairly unassuming grave.

After that, we headed to our hotel for the night, that was a bit of a diversion from Route 100. I found that to get a nice hotel for a decent price we needed to divert, so we headed east to White River Junction to stay at Hotel Coolidge (perhaps fitting?) which was a historic hotel there. We checked into our room and then ate at a nearby restaurant called Tuckerbox which served Turkish food.

We enjoyed the food but had a little snafu with the prices: this was a bit ridiculous: the menus we ordered from had different prices on them that what we were charged (and what were on the website) and then the server said, well, our prices went up and not all the menus reflected the changes, and showed us that some of the menus had the newer prices. Which was like, ummm, okayyyyyy. But it was nearly impossible to prove that OUR menus had had lower prices and honestly, what, you should also believe us, and so we had to pay higher prices that what we thought when we ordered (and again, also higher than what they publish on their website) so we can’t in good conscience recommend the restaurant, because that is really shady. In my opinion. And really put a damper on what was otherwise a perfectly lovely day and evening.

After dinner we took a walk and the weather was lovely, and the town was pretty cute, there were a lot of train tracks and a river and we were really near New Hampshire as well. The Hotel was “historic” which meant that the hallways were big and the hotel was big with a giant bathroom that seem like how did it get added in and you weren’t sure what was going on, but it was nice, and I would recommend it. There was a dedicated parking lot behind the building, sort of inside the block as well, and a Keurig coffee maker in the lobby with free coffee for hotel customers.

That’s where I will end this blog post. Next time, we will continue up Route 100 to Stowe, Vermont, for more cheese and some apple cider, and maybe bears, but maybe not bears.