All posts by hannahviolin

I am a violinist. I also enjoy running, working out, reading, and hanging with my friends and cat.

Norway Trip #3: The Fjords, not terribly af-fjordable, but terribly beautiful.

I know, I know. It’s a bad joke. But seriously, Norway is expensive.

Part 1 here: how we got to Norway and then to Bergen.

Part 2 here: Bergen, where we got lucky and also unlucky

We left off when Louie and I had boarded our express boat to Balestrand. When I first started researching Norway, I knew we were going to Oslo, and then I had to figure out what else to do. Bergen seemed like the other obvious choice, and then I started looking at the small towns…some people say to just do the fjords and small towns, and I’m sure that would have been a perfectly gorgeous trip. Once I found out about “Norway in Nutshell” which is a way to see fjords using only public transportation from Bergen or Oslo, I knew we wanted to do something like that. I ended up going with a version of it called “Sognefjord in a Nutshell”, which for the record, several people on Trip Advisor poo-pooed as being boring because of the long boat ride. Our first segment of the ride was 4 hours long, and even with not feeling well I found it to be phenomenally beautiful and I am so glad we did it!

Leaving Bergen: seeing Bryggen from the water was great!
You often hear that other countries don’t fly their flag as much as the US. That very well may be true, but we saw a lot of Norwegian flags, not just on boats or government buildings.
It was incredibly windy outside so we thought we could take our masks off for a better picture.
The scenery…not bad!
Some large statue, I’m not sure what it was.
I thought this was a funny sign/translation. The ship, which is a restaurant, is only allowed to drink beer and wine purchased onboard.
We got into some amazing mountain scenery. Pictures of course, do not do it justice.
The boat made several stops along the way. It was fun to see each tiny port and watch the crew get the ship ready to allow passengers on or off. Not many got on or off along the way, but here and there.

I took a video from the top at one point after getting back on the water after a stop.

There was a giant cruiseship outside of Vic, one of the bigger towns we stopped at.

After about 4 hours, we started coming into the Balestrand Harbor, our home for the next two nights. A large group were getting off with us, so we had to wait our turn to disembark.

Our ship, the Njord.

We had about a 5 minute walk to our hotel, the Midtnes Hotel. The fancy hotel in town is the Kviknes, but we aren’t fancy people (aka it was way more expensive). We weren’t able to check in yet, but we were able to drop off our bags and headed back out to explore. We ate a picnic lunch and then looked into getting information on short hikes.

Initially I had planned for us to hike this afternoon, but it looked like it was about to rain, in fact, rain was forecast in one hour. (We didn’t know it at the time, but rain would be forecast in one hour for the next day or so, until it finally rained.) I also felt utterly exhausted and wanted to rest. Louie decided to go for a quick hike on his own “before the rain” and I went back to the hotel to rest. The hotel room was nice: it had a balcony that overlooked the fjord (if you angled a little bit) and while the hotel was dated, it was perfectly lovely.

The view from the room.
The view if you angled a little bit. In the distance you can see the ferry from Vangnes to Dragvik, taking cars back and forth.

Louie’s selfie from his hike.

It turned out Louie got in a nice hike for a few hours in the sun, while I was able to check into the room. When he got back, he crashed for the rest of the night. I ended up having to go to the grocery to get supplies for dinner in the room and he had a rough night of sleep as well.

This was a portion of our visit that definitely didn’t go as planned. I am still a little sad writing it. I wanted to have done the hike, we planned to take the boat to Vic in the morning to see a Stave Church/maybe even meet up with a distant relative of Louie’s since the area is where his great-grandfather was born. But I was also thankful that we weren’t stuck in the hotel room as we might have been in another country!

Balestrand.
The Midtnes is the white building in front and the white building behind. The little church is St Olav’s and it inspired the church in Frozen, I am told.

As far as the hotel: we had asked about breakfast in the morning, because initially we planned to leave early for the boat to Vic before breakfast at the hotel was served. The owner put the spread out early for us, and even though then we didn’t go, it was still so nice! I took plates of food up to the room for us to have: at that time Louie was in no position to get up and we didn’t want to eat around others in any case.

We rested in the morning, and then met our afternoon tour: a boat to Fjaerland to see a Glacier! Like the day before, we kept our masks on, and spent as much time as possible outside. The tour only have about 10 people on it so there was plenty of room to spread out.

On another boat!
This little owl had a head that went all the way around.

We got on the boat and stayed on top in the open for awhile, until it just got to be too cold and windy. There was a nice area below to hang out, with windows and a cafe selling coffee, snacks, and even pasta bolognese. We did not order it, but somebody did on the way back!

The landscape was full of mountains, waterfalls, and tiny little hamlets, some deserted, some only occupied in the summer (former homes that remained in families from before that now people use as summer homes).

I had wondered if going on another boat ride was overkill, but it was not. This fjord was different enough (smaller) and the views, frankly, never get old!

We imagined boating around from village to village, hamlet to hamlet.

The weather was more overcast today than the day before. We had been lucky with the weather in Norway so far, but today was a bit more overcast and seemed to threaten rain.

The boat got to the town of Fjaerland

We disembarked in Fjaerland and got on a bus to the Glacier Museum. You can see us getting into Fjaerland here.

I just can’t get enough pictures of this view!

It was a short drive to the Museum, where we were given an hour to look around. There was a wonderful introductory video and then various exhibits to learn about Glaciers and other related topics. It was a small museum, but an hour was just barely enough time.

The museum itself was an interesting site.
The mammoths from above–you could walk up to the roof of the museum.

Next the bus took us close to the Jostedeen Glacier. This was an amazing view!

You could hear the hundreds of waterfalls running down the entire time.

I took a video you can watch here.

The visitor’s Center at the Glacier was adorable and blended into the landscape. Norway’s “parkitecture” was delightful.

Definitely take the Fjord and Glacier Tour if you are in Balestrand. Some of the reviewers complained that it wasn’t an active tour, or that you were herded from place to place. Well, maybe if the tour was full: we were only about 10 as it was early in the season and I can imagine if the boat and bus were fuller it might feel more like being herded. But it’s a lovely boat ride and then you see a cool museum and a beautiful glacier, which plenty of cars were parked at as well…what’s not to like?

The boat ride back was uneventful. It was a bit rainier feeling and we were more tired, so we mostly rested inside.

After we got back from the cruise, we went back to the room to rest up for a bit, and then decided to get dinner outside at a nearby restaurant. We chose Gekken’s since it advertised a special that seemed more affordable than some places, and had outdoor seating. It was cold and finally did rain for real, so we were the only ones seated outside, which was likely for the best!

We got fish soup and salmon. It was good enough!

Fish soup.
Salmon with boiled potatoes, carrots and a side salad.

We enjoyed watching a seagull nest nearby. The seagull had chosen to make its nest on top of a shed, right near the restaurant. At one point another seagull came and they squawked back and forth a bit and then traded off.

New seagull, who this?

After dinner we got a cider to split in the room and went to sleep.

Oh, and after the rain there was a gorgeous rainbow! It was wonderful to see from our balcony.

The next morning we got “takeout” breakfast again and rested in the room until check out time. We were sad to leave Balestrand, but we had tickets (nonrefundable) to go through Flam en route to Oslo and needed to keep moving. I do wish we had felt better while in Balestrand, but what can you do.

We had a picnic lunch before catching our boat, the same route that dropped us off two days ago. Louie felt particularly bad this day, and it was to be a rough travel day for him. I hated that, since this was supposed to be a wonderful scenic day of finishing up the “Sognefjord in Nutshell”: the boat to Flam and then the Flamsbana Railway to the Bergen Express back to Oslo. It was a lot of travel, all quite scenic, but not fun if you are sick.

A huge waterfall we detoured to see. My pictures closer up didn’t turn out too well.
You can see how the fjord is getting more narrow. That’s the part we missed seeing not doing Norway in a Nutshell, but we were absolutely pleased with our choice to do Sognefjord in a Nutshell instead.

The boat was relatively crowded but we found some good seats anyway, and relaxed and enjoyed the view for a few hours. We continued along Sognefjord, took a tiny detour into the start of the Nærøyfjord, and finally arrived in Flam. Flam could have been a cruise port anywhere, and I found it a little offputting what the cruise ships had done to what was likely at one time an adorable little hamlet on the fjord. We had lunch and looked at the Train Museum there and finally boarded our Flamsbana, the Flam Railway. I had chosen to have a few hours in Flam to look around rather than catch an earlier train, and I would say to you, eh, don’t bother. If you don’t have a particular activity planned, just keep moving.

The Njord, docked in Flam.
Flam. Generic shopping and mediocre restaurants, surrounded by gorgeous landscapes!
The Flam Railway, one of the most amazing train rides in the world.

Anyway, we boarded the railway for the journey. It was great! I didn’t think it was the greatest experience ever, simply because as a hiker, you can stop and enjoy things so much more, whereas on a train the landscape just whizzes by.

The train car was very red!

But it was a gorgeous ride, and we saw so many beautiful things. At one point we stopped at a waterfall and had a few minutes to get out. It was hilarious because a woman comes out and starts singing and dancing. This is when Louie recalled he had done this before, over 20 years ago, and he remembered the woman.

The train, just through a tunnel.
You can see the lady in red in this photo.

Anyway, we got to Myrdal after an hour or so, and then boarded our train to Oslo. I had hoped this would be relaxing, but it wasn’t so much. Our seats weren’t as nice as the way from Oslo to Bergen, and we ended up facing backwards the whole way and sharing a space with two people facing us, which was a little more uncomfortable, less foot space, etc. It was a difficult 5 hour journey because of this. I was able to enjoy the scenery still, but Louie was just barely hanging on.

Finally we arrived back at Oslo Station. Since we were exhausted and it was actually somewhat dark, we decided to just get a cab to the AirBNB that would be our home for the next week or longer. Cabs in Oslo are definitely expensive, and if we had had any energy to take a train or tram instead, it would have been a better idea. But we got there, met our AirBNB host, and found the place.

So that was Balestrand. Not quite as hoped, but we made the best of a bad situation. Maybe someday we will return and do more hiking!

Norway Trip #2: Bergen, where we got lucky and also unlucky

I never know if it’s better to do day by day recaps or more of a general thing. Travel blogs that are monetized do lists like “the top 10 things to do in Bergen” or “7 Things to make your vacation in Bergen Ultimate!” I know those things have better SEO but when I’m looking at information and trying to research trips, what I love most is reading about someone’s trip, what did they actually do, how did they fit it into the days they had, that sort of thing. But what I don’t know is if I am the weird one for enjoying reading that sort of thing!

Part 1 here: how we got to Norway and then to Bergen.

I think I’ll continue my day by day for now, but I may be more general in Oslo later. *shrugs*.

We arrived via train around 5:15 pm and walked about 15-20 minutes to our AirBNB. It was raining, and I had the hardest time following my phone map (jet lag/brain fog?) but luckily not raining too hard. We finally found the place and the keys were in the lockbox as promised.

The AirBNB was cute, great location, with an amazing view. It seemed as described, and we were excited.

We were visiting Bergen during the Bergen International Festival, an international arts festival. We wanted to take advantage of a few things, so the first night we were headed to a free Hardanger Fiddle concert played by Benedicte Maurseth in the public square, Torgallmenningen, so we needed to head out to get there. It was a 10 to 15 minute walk and we were eager to see Bergen along the way without the worry of our luggage.

Louie in front of Bryggen, the old part of Bergen.

The outdoor space! There were some chairs set up and we managed to snag a pair after the rain started up again. Most people just pulled out their umbrellas, so we did the same. When in Bergen…

Selfie time!

The concert was about 45 minutes long and we enjoyed it. All of the commentary was in Norwegian, and seemed to be interesting and relatively funny based on the audiences reactions. After that we headed for our dinner reservation at Bryggeloftet & Stuene, an old restaurant in the Bryggen area that was supposed to be delicious and traditional. I had made a reservation because I didn’t know if Sunday nights were busier since some other places were closed and I also knew there was an International Arts festival going on! The place was packed, so I’m glad I made the reservation. We got seated promptly, and I decided to order the mussels which were in a cream sauce and came with fries. Louie ordered the Wolffish with his choice of potatoes and he chose potatoes dauphinoise. (Lots of potatoes on the menu!) They ended up bringing out boiled potatoes by accident at first, so he ended up with double potatoes!

It was a lot of food!

We thought we were surrounded by Norwegians as we heard a lot of languages we didn’t understand, but the server spoke to nearly everybody in English, so I suspect we were surrounded by Swedish people, Germans, etc. Everybody in Norway speaks English really well, with American accents for the most part.

After dinner we were exhausted so we didn’t wander too much and headed home to sleep.

A word about Norwegian beds: everywhere we went instead of one large comforter, quilt, or duvet covering the bed, there were two smaller duvets. No top sheet, but of course the duvet cover is washable. So we each got our own duvet, which was weird at first but we got used to.

I had a little trouble sleeping at one point and took this picture in the middle of the night. Notice how the sky isn’t too dark-that’s not from the lights of the city, it’s because the sky never gets too dark in the summer.

Our place in Bergen was chilly that night but we couldn’t (in our jet lag/brain fog) figure out how to turn on the heat, and only managed to turn on the heated bathroom floor.

The next morning we got breakfast at a nearby coffee shop called BKB coffee. I had a cappuccino and a scone. Louie asked for the apple scone and the barista was so confused until we all realized that Louie meant “applesin” which isn’t apple at all but is orange! VERY FUNNY!

It was a lovely day so we went to the Floyen Funicular to ride up and see the city from above. There no line to speak up and before we knew it we were at the top. It was a wonderful view!

You can see the funicular in this photo.

We walked around looking at the view and then headed down a path and saw some goats!

The goats are all tagged and apparently stay within a fenced area but are allowed free reign within that area.

We walked around a bit, and took a short trail to a lake, and enjoyed the Norwegian “countryside” a bit.

I was still feeling tired/exhausted so we didn’t hike too far, but we decided to walk down rather than take the funicular. We finished our exploring at Floiyan, had a coffee and quick snack, and then headed down.

We took a short break back at the house to change and rest, and then headed out in search of fish soup. We ended up having our (first) bowl of fish soup at a tented restaurant by the harbor.

Fish soup, a Bergen specialty, though we found it all across Norway.

We had tickets for a cello recital that evening at Edvard Grieg’s House, and needed to get ourselves there: it involved a train and a 20 minute walk, not a huge deal, but we wanted to be on the early side to look around as well. For those of you who don’t know: Grieg is the most famous and accomplished Norwegian composer of classical music.

After our soup we walked around taking pictures, looking at stuff, etc., getting a coffee and dessert to pack for later, and finally catching the tram or train to the stop.

We managed the uphill walk to Grieg’s house: it seemed somehow hotter than I thought it would be and I was still struggling with what I assumed was jet lag, with the niggling feeling in the back of my head that this was something more, but when we got there, wow, it was gorgeous!

The concert hall!
Grieg’s composing hut. What a lovely and inspirational place to create music!
In front of the hut with the concert/recital hall building in the background, further up the hill.
The boat dock.
Lifesize statue of Grieg himself. He was evidently under 5 and 1/2 feet tall.
Inside the concert hall. You can see the window in the back to look out.

The concert was great. It was played by a cellist, Amalie Stalheim, and a pianist Christian Ihle Hadland. Amalie had won the Norwegian Soloist Prize recently and she was fantastic. Also likely very funny but who would know: this was another time when the performer spoke Norwegian and we just smiled and nodded, haha!

One thing I particularly enjoyed about the concert was the end: the audience loved the concert and clapped wildly for her to return. They don’t do standing ovations and instead everybody started clapping all together in unison. It was very exciting to be part of, and of course they came back out and played an encore.

We went back the way we came, down the hill to the train stop, and made it relatively easily back to the city. We had a little trouble getting tickets, but it turned out one of the machines was broken. And we even had time to eat the aforementioned dessert before the train came.

I should say: we wore masks at the concert and on the train, even thought nobody else was. I was feeling quite tired/exhausted/warm on the ride back and luckily managed to get a seat after a few stops: I wasn’t sure I would make it all the way leaning against the wall.

We were hungry so we stopped at a sausage stand, Trekroneren, and got a street sausage. Not something we normally eat, but we chose to eat very little meat for reasons that do allow us to eat meat on occasion. This was reindeer sausage with lingonberry jam, mustard, and fried onions, which was how the employee suggested I try it.

Then it was time to say good bye to another day, even if the light was still with us. I was feeling not great, so Louie ran over to the nearby 7-11 to get a few drinks/sodas and a quick lunch to split. We did figure out how to turn on the heat as well: the evenings were pretty cold, down into the high 30s/low 40s. I also figured I’d run a load of laundry: there was a combination washer/dryer, which was pretty unusual to us, but we figured out how to use it. It took about 3-4 hours and didn’t finish until late at night, and sang a song then that woke me up, but in the morning when I checked the laundry was clean and dry!

The next morning we went to the supermarket first. We bought some things we needed and enjoyed browsing the aisles for all of the things that were different from here. After that we went for breakfast at a nearby restaurant called Godt Brød, meaning literally, Good Bread. We ordered coffees and scones and the barista suggested we get brown cheese on our scones. We had heard of brown cheese but hadn’t tried it yet so we enthusiastically agreed.

Sitting outside the Floiyen Funicular, the white building in the back.
I actually had a cappuccino.

After our breakfast, we headed towards Bryggen and then to the Bergenhus Festning, the Fortress.

We decided to buy tickets for the Rosenkrantz Tower, which was a tower that kept getting added on to. You went down into the dungeon first (which made us really realize how awful being in a dungeon would be, if we didn’t already realize that).

At least we had electric lights!

The bathrooms were built into the dungeon area.

Of course we both had to take advantage of them! When traveling the rule is if you see a bathroom you use it. Also, bathrooms in Norway tended to be impeccably clean.

Then we started climbing up the stairs to higher rooms for various royalty.

The King had had his own bathroom!

When you are the King, you get a private toilet that goes…somewhere lower I suppose!

And from the top there was a lovely view!

The Ferris Wheel was near where the cruise ships dock.

After the Tower we just walked around the Fortress a bit. We came across a museum about the Resistance and popped in. It was free, and seemed like a lovely museum, but it was really hot inside and I just couldn’t read anymore, so we didn’t stay too long.

We decided lunch would be more fish soup! Rick Steves recommended we try Søstrene Hagelin so we did. It was good, different than the previous soup, more chowdery and full of dough balls of fish. They also sold a lot of “fish cakes” so we tried a few of those as well.

And then we walked around a bit more, getting a coffee at Cafe Opera, before going to the Bryggen Museum. The Bryggen Museum was very interesting, about the history of Bergen and how people lived and lots of archeological finds. It’s also so interesting to think of how in Europe you are literally on top of all the places people have lived for hundreds and hundreds of years, and it just keeps getting higher and higher.

(Of course, we have the same here, it’s just different because we prefer to pretend nobody lived in the States before the white people “discovered it”. )

After the Museum it was time to face some facts. I wasn’t feeling well, and we had dinner reservations for a Michelin-star restarant, Lysverket, and that would mean sitting unmasked in a restaurant for 2-3 hours and…we took COVID tests.

Here’s where I hesitate, how much to tell you? I know that some of you will think we were wrong every step of the way, that if you got COVID on your trip to Norway for two weeks you would do everything perfectly and know exactly what to do. But I will tell you, nothing is black and white.

We took the tests. I was positive, Louie was negative. We were in shock for a bit, and then started trying to figure out what to do.

  1. We canceled our dinner reservation. This was a no-brainer, but absolutely devastating!
  2. We were supposed to leave the next day on a nonrefundable ticket. So our choices were: cancel, buy it again (when, it was purchased weeks in advance, so who even knows what is available) and try to find a place to stay somewhere in the city during a big festival. Or not. Just mask up, stay away from people.
  3. Norway doesn’t care. Their official COVID information is: stay home if you don’t feel well. Don’t worry about testing, we don’t do that anymore. Effective February 2022, they stopped worrying about it.
  4. The US Embassy website in Norway tells you to visit Norway’s health page to find out about COVID testing. The links they give are broken. So there was no real information about what to do, and we felt absolutely on our own.

So, we had Royal Kebab for dinner, got takeout and ate in a nearby park. We decided that our masks would protect others from us, as well as distancing, and we would just do our best to avoid people and be outside as much as possible if we felt up for it (we assumed that Louie would be getting it as well.) You can judge me, but you weren’t there, in a foreign country, away from all of your cold medicine and your box of extra food and your grocery delivery, having spent thousands on your trip and wanting to enjoy it after years of the pandemic.

Now, I realized that all of the weird symptoms I’d had, the extreme tiredness, the constant headaches, the fever, the chills, the sore throat, the runny nose, that was probably NOT jet lag and was actually COVID. So according to the idea that you get the latest omicron 2-3 days after being exposed, I likely got exposed the day before the trip, or possibly on the plane. Where masks are not required and few people wore them, even though WE DID.

I feel weird putting this out there on the internet, but I want to be truthful with you, and we did nothing illegal or wrong. Morally questionable, except we just didn’t see any other way that wasn’t horrendously expensive and would absolutely ruin the entire trip. If I sound defensive, it’s because I am!

Another statue of Edvard Grieg

So the next morning, we packed up, we got breakfast (outside at Good Bread again) and then went to board our boat to Balestrand, our next stop. I felt…okay. Stressed out beyond belief (would we ever be allowed to fly back home, remember at this time you needed a negative COVID test to return home) and worried about getting sicker, worried about Louie getting sicker, and frankly, feeling like we were in a lose-lose situation. I kept my mask on inside the entire trip and only removed it outside to eat or drink, or a quick picture, away from people (it was very windy outside so we weren’t concerned.)

Remember, I wear my mask to protect you!

So that’s Bergen. We were incredibly lucky with the weather: it was fairly warm and hardly rained at all, and incredibly unlucky to get COVID.

We came across a brass band of students playing in this gazebo at one point. It was fun!

Norway Trip #1: Too Good to be True

Sometimes I feel like my life is harder than it needs to be, but most of the time I feel pretty lucky. I think of how lucky I was to meet Louie when I did: both of us were recently out of long term relationships and absolutely nobody around us thought we would stick as a couple, yet nearly 9 years later, here we are.

Which brings us to Norway: because of Louie’s hard work and crazy life choices, such as pursuing a PhD while working full time, and after COVID travel was pretty much going again, he got asked to present at a conference in Oslo, so that meant I was going to, because of course! And if you’ve been reading the blog before, you know I made a plan for our trip which involved going about a week early to travel some other places in Norway first.

Between Rick Steves, Fodor’s, and Trip Advisor, I made a pretty good travel plan with the time we had. I prepared the itinerary, purchased tickets and tours in advance, and made documents of activities to do and good restaurants in each city or town we were staying. I was prepared!

This never stops people from asking questions a day or two beforehand as if I’ve never heard of the country before. “You should go to Bergen.” “You should make sure to see the fjords.” Like, sometimes I swear everybody thinks I am a complete idiot. Is it the smile? Is it that I’m a woman? Do they treat everybody they meet as if they are complete idiots? Are there seriously people who plan trips to a foreign country and do nothing beyond buying the plane ticket and wait for this person to tell them, the day or days before, what to do? But I digress!

I am a planner. I don’t always do well with changes. COVID taught me to be more flexible and to expect the worse, but I still prefer when things work as planned. You ask, why am I mentioning this, didn’t I have a nice trip?

Anyway, I think I’ll divide this blog into 4-5 posts. This is post one, and there will be one for Bergen, one for Balestrand, and then one for our return to Oslo, which may be turned into 2. So that’s the plan: stay tuned but also don’t stay that tuned, because going through pictures is tough, so many!

The day before we were to set out we were both still working, and I even picked up an extra gig to help out a friend who was isolating with COVID in their family. We wanted to check in for our flight but couldn’t, and this caused us some consternation: it didn’t say why we couldn’t and we were worried that something had gone wrong with something involving COVID somehow. Anyway, after an hour on hold with American, we learned that likely everything was fine and we could just check in at the airport.

It turned out the problem was that we were starting with American, but the second 2 flights were with Finnair, a partner, and Finnair didn’t let American customers check in online. No big deal. We got to the airport, got our boarding passes, seats, etc. Flew to Chicago, and had a long layover: had to change terminals, go through security, etc, so it was nice to have the time. We had lunch there, and facetimed family, and then had to get new boarding passes for our next flight (Finnair has some control issues) and we ended up with “comfort seats” which meant we would have slightly more leg room on our long haul flight…amazing!

We were in the minority with masking, but also removed them to eat meals and such.

In any case, our long haul flight was fine. We tried to sleep after they served dinner…I probably got 4 hours of sleep, which was pretty impressive. I had a neck pillow which helped tremendously.

We landed in Helsinki, and went through passport control, which means they stamped our passports and asked questions about why we were there. I was fairly incoherent and couldn’t remember at that point, but I’m sure the passport guys are used to jet lag and tired passengers. We had a short layover in Helsinki, and I was feeling lousy and nauseated from the travel (or was it), headache and dehydrated. We finally boarded our third flight, to Oslo, and I slept some more. The landing was tough and it was the first time to my recollection, that I almost threw up. In any case, we left Oslo airport without further incident (and no customs that we could tell unless we missed something super important) and caught a Flytoget train to Oslo S, the Central Train Station.

The Flytoget is the express airport train. In retrospect, for this journey we could have saved about $20 and taken a regular train since we weren’t in a hurry, but I’m not perfect in my planning. We go to the station and then found our first hotel for the night nearby: CityBox Oslo. It was early afternoon and before official check in but thankfully we were able to check in right away, which was great!

We knew we needed to keep moving, so we unpacked, cleaned up and then hit the streets, walking all over. It was a warm sunny day, and everybody seemed to be out and about. We grabbed lunch at a nearby restaurant first, pizza, which was a funny choice for Norway but it was easy and I thought it would sit well for me.

Louie, a bit wind blown and drinking coffee outside the Opera House.
The Oslo Opera House, which sits on the entrance to the Oslo Fjord. You can walk up the walls/ceiling, and we did!
The Royal Palace: Norway has royalty!
Another view of the Palace.

After we walked all over the place, we tried to decide what to do for dinner, and we settled on having a drink and a snack at a very old restaurant called Stortorvets Gjæstgiveri located relatively near our hotel. We had a lovely time there and kept ordering snack after snack until we no longer needed dinner. We went back to the hotel after that and I believe I was asleep by 8 pm (20:00 as the locals would say).

Our initial reason to go to the restaurant was to order grilled toast and this was that. It was terrific and we enjoyed the patio dining.

I woke up at some point in the middle of the night and noticed that while it was a little darker, it wasn’t that dark. It never really gets dark in Norway over the summer: the sun does set in Oslo, around 10:30 to 11, but it doesn’t go very far.

The next morning we had a train to catch for Bergen! We enjoyed a breakfast buffet at a nearby restaurant, Spor av Nord. It was somewhat attached to the hotel and offered a discount for hotel guests. We had coffee, orange juice, cheese, bread, smoked salmon, eggs, waffles, and more. Then we walked back to the Train Station and caught our train to Bergen. It would be a 7 hour journey, but everybody said it was a beautiful ride as well, and it was nice just to relax, since I was feeling exhausted, headachey, and still a little queasy here and there.

On the train! I look super excited, though was I? Hard to recall.
Kvikk Lunsj, or Quick Lunch, is a chocolate bar similar to KitKat that is a local tradition. They would go hiking into the mountains with an orange and a Kvikk Lunsj for their lunch.

We packed food: caviar in a tube and crackers and Kvikk Lunsj, for the journey. It was a nice trip, and watching the Norwegian countryside as we traveled along was almost magical. We got to the middle of the trip, up in the mountains and were surprised to see that the landscape was changing to snow!

It’s hard to get great photos out of a moving train window, but look, snow!
This landscape was amazing and breathtaking and we just stared at it for a long time as we went by.

After a while, we struck up a conversation with the couple on the train across from us, who were British from London, and that was nice. And finally, we arrived in Bergen. It was raining a bit and was about 5 pm.

That’s where I’ll leave this travel blog recap for now. I may not be doing day by day in the future, I’m not sure. It seemed to make sense to start out, but may not make sense in the future, but I’ll decide later. Thanks for reading and let me know your thoughts in the comments! Have you visited Scandinavia before?

Back from Austin

I ended up having another trip just a few days after getting back from Norway. I had waffled on whether to accompany Louie to another conference, but I decided to because 1) it’s summer and I am self-employed and 2) I found pretty inexpensive tickets to go for a few days. So we headed out to Austin on Sunday, and now I’m back, and I already taught a 6 1/2 hour day yesterday after flying home in the morning and have another one today. I figured the best of both worlds: get some travel in, get some teaching in as well.

I won’t go into many details at this time and instead will leave you with the vague promise of more details later.

From a “BBQ and Wine Tasting” Tour I took: me pretending to hang out on the back of a pickup truck.

Things I have learned though, from back to back trips plus COVID: I get more tired than I think I will, and the heat in Austin is no joke. I ended up needed to come back to the room by mid afternoon to rest. Was that the heat, was it getting old, getting over COVID still (I feel fully recovered, but who knows), or even the remnants of jet lag, or do I just overestimate my ability to sight-see and be out and about? Who knows! It was a nice relaxing trip, with great food, some good relaxation, time with old friends, and some cultural stuff too.

The Texas State Capital, where laws are passed or not passed so that children can be murdered in their schools in the name of freedom.

I am still feeling so incredibly lucky to have spent 2 1/2 weeks in Norway, and I miss it. It’s always lovely to be home after vacation, and the cats are especially feeling our absences, but it is nice to get away and see the world, and realize that not everywhere is the same, even though more things are the same than you think.

I hope I can follow Louie to more conferences in the future: he is finishing up his degree this summer and who knows what the future will hold. I had a great time sightseeing on my own and enjoying the downtime, and would enjoy it again in the future. It’s also nice to be able to meet up with him for dinner: it’s much like our regular lives in that sense, except I get to sightsee during the day rather than teach and play violin. It also told me that I would definitely consider doing solo vacations in the future as well.

Things that are awesome about Norway/Things that are not quite as awesome

We made it back home two nights ago! We both dropped right into work and such (laundry, house cleaning) but I thought I’d pop in.

If you are an instagram follower of mine you’ve been getting to see all of the wonderful pictures. Norway is gorgeous. It was a wonderful trip, with one major exception.

The major exception is that we both caught COVID on the trip (or likely, before the trip, in my case). So we fuddled through life the best we could, with poor information. And at the end, we had to change our flight to come back a few days later in order to ensure negative tests or a proof of recovery documentation for both of us, only to have the US change the testing requirement to mean we could have stayed with our original plans. Nonetheless the extra days were nice to make up for the sick ones.

So, 6 things things that were awesome about Norway:

  1. In the summer it never gets dark! The sun goes down around 10:30 to 11 pm but it doesn’t go very far, and then it’s back up by 4 am.
  2. Public transportation. In Oslo we used an app that you could buy tickets through as well as plan your route to wherever you were going. It was amazing to just step out on the street, walk a few blocks and hop on the bus or tram you needed.
  3. There was a delicious bakery around the corner from our AirBNB in Oslo that we ate at too many times to count. Good cappuccinos as well as pastries and bread.
  4. The people were wonderful and helpful. Everybody speaks English (they learn from a young age) and even though I felt guilty that I didn’t speak much Norwegian (really, any, more than a phrase or two) nobody seemed to be too bothered by this.
  5. The fjords really are gorgeous, and the mountains. The train from Oslo to Bergen was more beautiful than we expected.
  6. Boat rides: if you go to Norway, you MUST take a boat ride.

3 Things that aren’t quite as awesome about Norway:

  1. Everything, especially food, is incredibly expensive. If you get a sandwich at a restaurant, it’s $25 to $30. Even the grocery store is more expensive that you’d expect.
  2. It’s very far away. We had to take three flights, which on the way back meant going through security three times. There weren’t any reasonably priced options that didn’t have three connections.
  3. We had to leave! They wouldn’t just give us an apartment and jobs and let us stay there. We may have to look into that further.
One of those expensive sandwiches. And it’s not because it’s shrimp, all of them are expensive. Shrimp is common food.
Standing in front of Grieg’s composer hut. We saw a concert at the recital hall there.
On the boat to Balestrand, going up the Sogneford.
The view from our hotel in Balestrand. That is St. Olaf’s Church, and supposedly it inspired parts of Frozen.
Jostadeen Glacier.
Gustav Vigeland’s famous sculpture, Angry Baby.
A Stave Church at the Norwegian Folk Museum, a wonderful open air museum.
I loved all of the grass topped houses and want to live in one.

So that’s the teaser post. I’ll write a bit more about in the next week or two about each location we visited (and of course share more photos): Bergen, Balestrand, and Oslo (where we spent over a week and really started to feel like locals, haha.) If you have an opportunity to visit Norway, I recommend you take it!

Summer Vacation

My early morning job is done for the school year! It ended after a Monday, which is weird, and some of my colleagues seemed to not notice that us part-timers were done for the year and didn’t even say goodbye, but whatever, I’m on summer vacation! I celebrated by falling asleep before 11 pm and waking up at 6:30 am. Since then I’ve updated my website, paid bills, and enjoyed two cups of coffee.

My summer is really starting to fill up with teaching. I’d be happy to have a few more concerts or gigs, but my teaching schedule is looking great. I’m probably averaging 18-20 hours, which is plenty. I said goodbye to a high school senior last night at her lesson, as well as goodbye to an elementary school age student who is leaving lessons. I got to have lunch with a former college student yesterday, which was wonderful. It was great to hear how she is doing in grad school and in life, and I was touched that she contacted me to meet up during her short visit with friends.

I have been struggling with feeling like I’m missing out—I haven’t been playing as much lately, which is a somewhat conscious choice, but I still get twinges of jealously seeing what concerts others are up to. I remind myself we get one life and we can’t fit everything in! I would love to do it all, but I can’t have a busy teaching schedule, travel with Louie to his conferences, and play all the gigs. I just can’t. And I have played things lately, and it’s been fun, and there is more on the docket ahead, but it’s also okay to not play everything…I mean, you can’t play everything, not even a fraction of it!

I would like to do more high level playing, either a more serious chamber music concert (I miss our quartet playing regularly) or perhaps a solo recital that I can sink my teeth into. I was stressed over my new music concert in March, but it was nice to have something to dig in and really work on. I enjoy sightreading tremendously, but it doesn’t give that musical satisfaction in the same way. I have tossed a program around in my head, and I suppose I should really just get something on the books at Wash U…but then I also really enjoy reading in my spare time. I can’t decide if I’m tired, burnt out, or just need something ahead to inspire me. It may be all 3!

In any case, I’m thrilled to be on “summer break” from my school job (okay, except I still have to get grades in) and my college job (truly done!) and just have my private students and gigs to deal with for a few months. Since our weather finally got hot last week, it does indeed feel like summer.