All posts by hannahviolin

I am a violinist. I also enjoy running, working out, reading, and hanging with my friends and cat.
Random thoughts

Arkansas Travelers: Two Nights in Fayetteville and Bentonville

So far I’ve told you about  Little Rock, Hot Springs, our wonderful cabin in the Ozarks near the town of Pettigrew, and our short trip to Fort Smith.

That leaves our last two nights on the Arkansas journey, two nights south of Fayetteville at a lovely airbnb in a bit of a rural area, but not as rural as in the Ozarks, since it was about 15 minutes drive to Fayetteville.

I had forgotten until we were getting close that our last airbnb had not only a hottub, but a pool as well. It was a hot day, so we thought we’d check in, get unpacked, and go for a swim before dinner.

What a beautiful building this was!

The cottage was designed by a couple who were an architect and landscape designers teaching at the University of Arkansas at Fayetteville, so it was gorgeous and well designed.

And the pool was lovely!

We had a nice swim and enjoyed just relaxing in the pool. We learned that Louie can’t float on his back–I tried to teach him, but while I can float on my back, I cannot teach somebody else to do so.

We had a dinner reservation at Vetro 1925 in Fayetteville, so we got cleaned up and headed to Fayetteville a little early. I wanted to see the house where the Clintons lived while they were in Fayetteville–it was technically a museum but not open anymore, partly due to COVID, partly (it seemed) due to state budget cuts.

It looked like an easy walk there from where we parked near the restaurant, but it ended up being really hilly, up and down and up and down, sometimes very steep!

It was sort of anticlimatic when we got there! And I’m not sure what the deal is with the pig.

It is a pretty house though, and I’m sorry it wasn’t open as a museum.

Then we got to back to where the restaurant and car were, and got seated ahead of our reservation.

Wow! This meal did not disappoint. We split a bunch of things, which we like to do, and while I was marginally annoyed that they charged us for splitting, when we never actually asked to split and only said we would be sharing everything, I decided that was a small thing. (To be clear: we shared about 4 dishes, and said we were sharing, and they brought some of the dishes on two plates, which we did not ask for, and they did charge us extra for that.)

Not pictured, the salad course. Everything was tasty, though the tiramisu was a bit over the top and might have focused more on something other than chocolate syrup…

We went back to the cabin or whatever you want to call it after dinner and relaxed. I actually don’t recall if we got in the hottub or not, but I bet we did.

The next morning we were heading to Bentonville and the Crystal Bridges Museum of Art. We ate oatmeal in the kitchen, made coffee, and headed out.

This is where the day got very Walmart centered. Bentonville is where Walmart got started and it is a scene there. Mountain biking, tourism, and this gorgeous Museum. I have a lot of feelings about Walmart, few of them good, but we had heard that the Museum was excellent.

I wrote a long rant about Walmart and how they are responsible for so many issues in our country through years of political lobbying, low wages, etc, but I decided to just let it go…I’ll just sum it up to say that I was excited to see the museum because I love art, but I won’t wax poetic over the Waltons for spending a small amount of their fortune on a museum which only improves their social standing. They have a lot of money. I do things for free too and give many charitable donations and I don’t make signs all over my house bragging about it.

ANYWAY sorry about all my soapboxing! Back to the trip report 🙂

I have to say, the Crystal Bridges Museum is really lovely. It’s a little confusing at first, because there is a lot going on between indoor and outdoor paths, a bit of construction, COVID, and a sort of open area you enter without obvious maps or welcome area. But we found our way, first to the outside paths because we were afraid it would start raining soon…

And then we made it inside. The galleries were well laid out, kept things moving while being interesting and informative. We didn’t find the collection to be overwhelmingly large, which was nice. We walked around for a few hours and decided to take a break to have lunch at the cafe, which was very nice.

After lunch, we decided to leave, so we headed to downtown Bentonville to check it out. It was…lovely. Like a disneyland version of what small towns used to look like before Walmart decimated them! So glad they kept one! It was cute and shiny, and full of art and bicycles.

We didn’t get to see the Walmart Museum as I’d hoped, because COVID meant reservations and I hadn’t made one, because my priority had been the art museum–which had originally required reservations as well but then changed recently. We walked around, visited a bike shop, a coffee shop with the worst bathrooms we’d seen in such a nice area for awhile, a fancy Walmart grocery store, and some lovely paths through some Gardens.

We decided to eat an early dinner in Fayetteville, and went to Hugo’s, which was a long running favorite of locals Burger place. It was great! We had a bit of a wait even at 5 pm, but nothing bad at all and we enjoyed the ambience and the food. It felt a bit more “real” than Bentonville, and we appreciated that. I’m sure that Bentonville feel is right for many, just not me.

We enjoyed the hot tub and visited with our host’s horses after dinner, and then watched some tv while it rained a bit outside.

The next morning we headed towards Pea Ridge Military Park, which is an NPS site, so you know it’ll be well done. It was a gross rainy day, so we decided against any hiking, and just visited the Vistor’s Center and then did the loop road. We did pop out at every stop and took short walks as they were there (it wasn’t raining too hard, but it was soggy and buggy for sure). It gets tempting sometimes, to just stay in the car, but we decided since we were there we were going to pop out at every stop. There weren’t any we regretted.

It was interesting to learn about a Civil War Battle and really made me think about how awful War is and how there are many people who glorify violence, when it isn’t that at all. So many soldiers (and civilians) died and were wounded, and for what? Surely there are better ways. There are so many wars going on, right now…it just makes you really think about life, and how so much of what we have in our lives we take for granted and it could all be taken away in an instance.

In any case, we learned quite a bit. The museum in the Visitor’s Center was a nice start, and then the signs and brochure are helpful along the way. We had visited somewhat nearby Wilson’s Creek National Battlefield in a previous year, and this was a later battle. If I’m remembering correctly!

Also the Trail of Tears went by here. What a horrible thing that was.

They had all the cannons lined up where they would have been.

There was some nice scenery as well!

The Elkhorn Tavern, which I think was rebuilt for this, but I’m not sure. Sometimes the NPS is sneaky like that, you think something was still there and it is actually a reconstruction, so I don’t know. I could probably research it, but where’s the fun?

Anyway, after visiting Pea Ridge, we hit the road for home. It was about a 4 hour drive home, and we made it by dinner time.

Arkansas was a lovely time. We especially enjoyed our last two airbnb’s, the Buckstaff Bathhouse, Pinnacle Mountain State Park, Little Rock Central NHS, the grounds of the Clinton Library in Little Rock, eating at Brave New Restaurant, visiting Crystal Bridges, eating at Vetro 1925 and Hugo’s, and just generally being away from St Louis! We are sorry that the Bill Clinton Presidential Library in Little Rock was closed due to COVID, and that the visitor’s center and museum in Ft. Smith were closed for the same reason as those would have been great to see.

As more time now has passed, I will still say we enjoyed the trip, though we are sad we didn’t get to do a bit camping/out west trip this summer. Arkansas was nice, relaxing, and a lovely place to spend a week. If you are a Missourian especially, I recommend visiting sometime! We have also visited Eureka Springs in the past and it was great.

Random thoughts

Halfway Done

By many measures summer is already halfway done. I only mention this in order to freak myself out.

I promise I will still tell you about the portion of our trip to Fayetteville and Bentonville, but life got too busy! I just got back from a trip to visit my sister and her family, and I was busy doing very little there but the time flew by. Before I left I did a very intense online conference on Paul Rolland Pedagogy while doing a normal week of teaching and life…so things were a bit slammed.

The pandemic has brought some great online educational opportunities into my life, and I’ve taken advantage of quite a few, but it means adding things onto an already somewhat busy schedule. That week was intense…livestreams or videos from the time I got up until when I went to bed with the exception of the times I was teaching or some meals. I didn’t even finish all the videos, so I’m halfheartedly playing catchup this week, because everything goes offline this Sunday. I say halfheartedly because I definitely will watch all the main track videos but my original goal of watching all the videos isn’t likely to happen, and that’s okay.

I have two more courses I’m taking this month, and I’m looking forward to them both. I’ve gotten a lot of wonderful ideas and inspiration over the past year and my brain and heart are absolutely full of ideas on how to be a better teacher. I’m working through ideas in my head about what kind of teacher I want to be going forward and how to use and incorporate some new ideas I’ve learned.

I read an article recently about “drift” (that one of my friends had posted online). The idea behind “drift” is that you end up doing things in your life by just sort of “drifting” into them, rather than making deliberate choices. Going to grad school because it was next in life, getting married/having children because all your friends are, taking a good job offer because it seemed like a good job offer and others encouraged you, etc. I sort of drifted into teaching to supplement my income and because people thought I would be good at it. I never felt like one of those teachers that was really into it or loved it or any of that, but in the past year my attitude and approach has changed.

I have been immensely grateful for my ability to teach during the pandemic, and have found such satisfaction in my ability to relate to my students and help them through this time. It has changed my idea of my career and made me feel much more satisfied with what I’m doing.

On other notes: fun stuff! LIVE MUSIC! We bought symphony tickets for next season AND jazz tickets for next season. I have a band performance this Friday, and a concert with the Metropolitian Orchestra of St Louis on Sunday night. (I think I overextended myself this weekend, but it’ll be fine.) I find myself wanting to schedule and do things, and feeling like it’s a slippery slope back into the world of being too busy, yet I am ready to LIVE again, and I think (this may sound crazy but) I’d rather be out and about doing interesting things than sitting at home. The park near our house is doing fireworks this weekend so we have an outdoor party planned, and well, there’s just good things happening.

I watch the delta variant numbers with caution, and found the study out of Israel about the Pfizer vaccine being less effective against the delta variant to be concerning…but I will hold steady and hope that my Pfizer vaccine keeps me healthy, until the CDC tells me otherwise.

We have two more weekend getaways planned before the school year, one camping in a State Park, and a weekend stay in Southern Illinois at a little cabin on a pond. Between then and now, lots of teaching, reading, music, gardening, friends, etc.

How’s your summer going?

Hiking, Travel

Arkansas Travelers: A Quick Stop in Fort Smith

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I’d been feeling a bit overwhelmed by what would be my last trip post, if I kept the same pattern of two nights, and then I said to myself, this is MY blog, nobody except me and my mom reads it, so why not break the last post up?

So far I’ve told you about  Little Rock, Hot Springs, and our wonderful cabin in the Ozarks near the town of Pettigrew. Our next airbnb was south of Fayetteville where we would be spending our final two nights of vacation, but I wanted to make a stop en route.

I like seeking out National Park Sites, not for a bucket list or anything, but because they are often well done and worth visiting, and I enjoy learning about history as we travel. I noticed that Fort Smith National Historic Site wasn’t too far out of the way, and I’d also found a blogger who really loved the town of Fort Smith, so we decided it was worth a short visit.

I wasn’t sure if our google directions already took the gravel roads into account when telling us how long it would take to get there, but it turned out they did. It took about 1 1/2 hours to get to Fort Smith, so we rolled in somewhere between 10 and 11. Fort Smith is located right on the western border of Arkansas by the Arkansas River, and our directions had us briefly in Oklahoma, which was very exciting.

That is Oklahoma.

The Visitor’s Center was closed due to COVID but there was a ranger sitting outside with a table of brochures and happy to answer any questions. I’m sorry we missed whatever museum would have been inside, but he said otherwise, just walk around and it is all well marked.

Various pictures from the route. There was a bit about Fort Smith itself, fighting against Native Americans and stealing their land and the Trail of Tears, things about the Civil War, a supplies area, and a garden.

It seemed that the Fort was important in its history in regards to the Civil War and the Trail of Tears. Some of the information we read was a little confusing out of context, for instance we read something about the soldiers at the Fort abandoning the town when South Carolina seceding from the Union, but then later referring to the soldier being there fighting…so maybe that visitor’s center museum would have been helpful? Or a book I suppose.

In any case, it was a nice place to walk around. There was an extra long walk one could take down by the river, which added about 3/4 mile (I am just trying to remember this without research, so I could be wrong). We enjoyed a nice walk along the Arkansas River. We’d had dinner along the Arkansas River and crossed it a few times by foot in Little Rock and now we were seeing it again on the other side of the state.

It was a lovely, shaded walk on a hot day.
The sign was at the edge of the property on the walk, not near the parking lot. Does that mean that the US is becoming a more pedestrian country?

After about an hour, we had seen all we could see. There weren’t proper restrooms at the site, so we figured we’d go and find lunch and bathrooms at the same place.

We drove down a very quaint, historic looking downtown strip to find a place called A.J.’s Oyster House. It was perfect: friendly, cool, had bathrooms, and we enjoyed some oysters too. I got the Oyster Po’boy and we split some Oysters Rockefeller.

After lunch we decided to pop back over to the downtown area to walk around, but I got distracted by a sign about Victorian Homes, and we ended up walking by some of them instead. They all seemed to be law firms now.

We couldn’t check into our airbnb until 3 pm and it was an hour away, so after our stroll we got coffees and relaxed at the Fort Smith Coffee Company (super cool place!) until it was a reasonable time to take off.

Keep your eyes out for the final, or who knows, installment of the trip to Arkansas!

Random thoughts

Starting to be normal again

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I could start my post with all sorts of caveats, that I know it isn’t normal, that so many in the world are still struggling, etc. But, we are a fully vaccinated household, the vaccines are still working well against the variants, and we are doing things again and it is wonderful!

Not all of us are doing things all of the time

Louie is going to work in person most days. I have a lot of students coming to the house for lessons. It feels more like a workday when he is gone, so we both get more done.

We’ve done a few social activities, which is great! We had dinner with friends Saturday night, I had my first lunch with a friend date since the before times, and we went out to dinner last night at Louie in Demun for Louie’s stepdad’s birthday. (It was delicious, though we ate too much and then went to bed so I woke up in the night and tossed and turned a bit.)

This was on the wall behind me at Louie: it’s by Joshua Bell, a well known violinist
At the opera!

We had purchased “Young Friends” tickets to Opera St Louis for Sunday night, and enjoyed a little picnic first and then saw Highway 1 by William Grant Still.

Our seats were not very good though!

Anyway, it’s been hectic here, but after a week in Arkansas it’s been a lot easier to handle it. I needed that break, and right now, I need another break, but I know it is coming up soon so I am doing well getting through my schedule. I think I’ll teach through July then like I said and take at least one more week off in August: I’m still waiting to hear more certainly when various family members might be visiting in August and that will inform my decision on time off. I’d love to take another trip somewhere, but I think it might just be a staycation with family visiting, with maybe some day trips.

We are planning to camp this weekend, however. I have reservations for two nights at Cuivre River State Park, but currently the weather is looking…not great! We’ll see what happens with the forecast over the next two days I guess. Thunderstorms and camping are not super fun, nor fun for the hiking we hoped to do on Saturday in between our camping nights. I made reservations because things get pretty full around here on the weekends, but who knows how the weather will be, right?

We’ve had some good stuff happening from the garden. We’ve been eating peas, chard, lettuce, and raspberries!

Day Lilies under the new tree.
This lovely platter was a gift from Leslie. We enjoyed a home “happy hour” which just turned into dinner.

That’s it for now…people keep asking me do I have a lighter schedule in the summer. The answer is YES because I don’t have any 7:15 am classes, but I took a bunch of new private students, a few for probably year-round and a few for just summer lessons (keeping up between school orchestra years). I wanted to make sure to replace my graduating seniors, but many of my now-graduated seniors have not stopped lessons yet…so there are some busy teaching days! July is a bit lighter as people get more into camps and vacations, but I won’t fool myself. My schedule won’t be any lighter until I really make it so sometime. I have been fortunate during this time to have an incredibly full violin and viola studio with inquiries nearly every week for possible new students.

I have started 5 beginners in the past month and it’s been fun! I haven’t had so many beginners at once (not counting my school job) in over a decade, so it’s great to try some new strategies with old favorites. I could go on about how I teach beginners, but this isn’t a violin specific blog, so I won’t, but feel free to reach out 🙂

Keep your fingers crossed for the weather being decent this weekend! and tell me, what have you been up to this summer so far? Any interesting activities?

Arkansas, Travel

Arkansas Travelers: Deep into the Ozarks for Two Nights

So far at this point in our trip we have visited Little Rock and Hot Springs. When planning the trip I studied the map of Arkansas and tried to decide what would be fun. I knew I wanted us to visit the Fayetteville/Bentonville area last, so I thought, hmm, how about heading into the mountains for a bit? I searched on airbnb for various rural places, and finally found a wonderful cabin near the town of Pettigrew.

The host had warned me ahead of time about a few things: 1) that you probably wanted an SUV or something along those lines for the 5 miles of gravel roads plus their driveway 2) there was no phone service or reliable internet and 3) they had dogs that would be visiting. Oh, and 4) that you needed to bring all your supplies because the nearest grocery story was 4 miles away.

There was also a stern warning about 5) not taking a certain route that google might suggest you take because the road would be impassable at a point and you might get stuck and damage your car.

So, with all of those warnings in mind, it sounded great. 5 miles from a paved road, awesome! Beautiful pictures on airbnb! No phone service for two days so nobody could bug me about violin lessons! Remote location! Hiking! Dogs and chickens and a river! And, since this is important on airbnb as well, a thoughtful and communicative host!

It was about a 3 hour drive from Hot Springs to the cabin. Along the way we stopped at a Walmart to get groceries and stopped at a Mexican restaurant in Russellville for lunch. We carefully watched the roads as we got close and initially missed our first turn off onto the gravel roads, but it was easy to backtrack.

We’d been driving on various winding highways up until this point, but it is difficult to describe in words how interesting and unlike what we were used to it was like driving on these dirt/gravel roads in the Ozarks. We were surrounded by trees at times, with a creek even going across the road here and there. We would see a farmhouse here and there, some in ruins, some that looked like people still or recently lived there. I’d say about half of the houses we saw looked abandoned and the other half looked lived in. We saw cows and ponds. We kept crossing over the Little Mulberry Creek, which was fairly wide at points (for this there were various types of bridges.)

I took this picture from the car as we went over a bridge.
This was the side view for one of the creeks that went over the road.
This was what the road looked like for much of the jounrney.

As we drove along our directions had given us various landmarks so we knew we were on the right route. We eventually turned onto a smaller, less well-maintained road, and then headed up a very steep, rocky driveway to get to the cabin.

The host normally lived in a house right by the cabin but she wasn’t there while we were there, which was a little scary at times (so desolate! so thinking of serial murderers!) but also very lovely for privacy. She had mentioned that someone would be by feeding the animals, but I didn’t realize that meant her dogs…

We found the cabin easily and parked in front of it, and then a dog came up. I was nervous at first, but it turned out that her two dogs were the most friendly and welcoming dogs you’d ever meet! The information in the cabin told us their names were Lola and Neena and they pretty much hung out with us the entire time we were there!

As we were getting the car unloaded and getting settled, we kept hearing a strange noise. I thought maybe it was just the screen door being weird (I don’t know!) but it turned out it was a couple of free range chickens. The dogs and the chickens didn’t seem to bother one another!

Anyway, we got settled, and then decided to take a walk. The dogs led the way down the driveway and then we all went to the creek, which was right near the driveway-the road we turned off of to get to the driveway continued a short distance and then dead-ended at the creek, though google maps showed it continuing across. Perhaps there was another road across the creek, or perhaps in very low water one could drive a certain kind of vehicle across, but there was no obvious way to do so, so that would be another piece of bad advice from google.

The chickens
The creek

The dogs led us to the creek where they did a little swimming. We poked around a bit and then decided to just walk up the road a bit. We passed some other houses and saw a few people out with their dogs, which was a bit awkward: we assumed since these dogs were completely free range that the closest neighbors knew them and that the dogs got along, but it seemed that neither of those was true. We didn’t have leashes or anything, but the neighbors seemed to be very wary with their dogs. As I said to one person, I was sorry, but these dogs weren’t even our dogs!

After walking a bit we headed back to make a fire and have dinner. The cabin had modern amenities and a small kitchenette (a two burner stove, coffeemaker, microwave, and small fridge), with lots of pots and pans, flatware, dishes and such to choose from, but there was also a firepit outside and some firewood to use. We thought a fire would be lovely since it was getting cooler! Louie worked on that while I made a shrimp with couscous dinner inside, and then we hung out a bit.

After eating we moved to sit by the fire. It was enjoyable, but the one dog kept getting up and barking into the night, which became a little scary….was there somethign out there? was she hearing things we weren’t? Being so remote, more remote than most of our camping experiences, and having this dog barking like there was danger, was a bit frightening! We decided after awhile to just go to bed, and it was nice and cool and wonderful to snuggle up under the covers.

In the morning we made oatmeal, and then headed out to hike. We decided to do a hike called the Redding -Spy Rock Loop, which was advertised as 8.3 miles and looked to be a good way to spend the day. It was about a 45 minute drive away, which sounds like a lot until you realize that 30 minutes of that is the 5 miles on gravel roads!

It is worth mentioning at this point that the two dogs slept outside our cabin all night, one of them possibly slept underneath it. They were happy to see us in the morning, but a bit harumph-py that we were leaving again.

Another view of the cabin
The creek looked so blue in the sun. It had a cloudy look to it, maybe a sort of mineral.
I mentioned cows.

We had a teeny bit of trouble finding where to park, and ended up finding a place that in retrospect we didn’t like as well as our first place, but it was all okay. We loaded up, added copious amounts of bug spray, and headed out.

The hike was perfectly nice. It was a bit swampy at first, so we were glad to gain some elevation. This isn’t a great time of year to hike in Arkansas due to bugs and humidity, though we were quite lucky with the weather not being too hot. The other thing that isn’t as nice is there are very few views as the trees all have their leaves, so you are just doing a lot of walking around in the woods! We had a few trees in the way, including two really big ones and had a couple of tricky diversions due to that. Louie joked he wished he had brought his saw along on the hike to help out more.

The trail was pretty easy to follow however. We were a little disappointed to find there was also a road up to Spy Rock (gravel, yes, but we saw a few vehicles go by) but nonetheless it was a lovely hike.

We took the West Loop first

Eventually we got to Spy Rock where we enjoyed a lovely view and ate our lunch. There was a nearby backcountry camping area for those who like to camp.

There is a waterfall in this picture if you squint.

After lunch, we got on our way again continuing along the east loop of the trail. The description in a book said there would be a variety of waterfalls, so we looked forward to that. It was a nice hike down, and the waterfalls were small but still a bit of fun along the way. I was a little worried about a tricky water crossing but nothing was too tough. The last mile or so of the trail was pretty rocky under foot and got to be pretty annoying, but before too long we found ourselves back at the car!

Louie ended up with a bunch of ticks on one of his socks, but I seemed okay. He tends to attract more ticks for whatever reason and I tend to attract more mosquitoes.

I don’t think we saw anybody on the hike, unless I am forgetting something.

After the hike, we decided to take the long route back to the cabin: there was another route in from the north side, so we drove around a bit to see the area more. There are some great windy roads, some tiny towns, and then about 7 miles of dirt roads (we drove through Pettigrew and then into the county road territory.) It was better from the other way but nice to see more of the land. One dog came out to visit in the road (actually this was a common thing, it happened at least twice) and we had to proceed cautiously while he said hello to the car and smelled it. Louie did an impression of the dog saying “Hi folks, we don’t get many visitors out this way!”

We finally found our way back to the cabin and I was beat! I showered and then spent the rest of the afternoon reading. Louie headed back down to the creek with the dogs and had a nice time taking pictures of them in the water.

Just some random pictures of the view from the porch, the chickens, and then Louie petting the two dogs. They were sweet dogs!

We made (bean) burgers on the fire that night and hung out outside for a bit, but were tired early and so didn’t stay up too long. The next morning we were headed to Fort Smith and then to Fayetteville to our next airbnb.

The one dog (Lola) was again barking at nothing or everything, and we thought maybe she was being proactive and warning any potential intruders of her presence. Occasionally the second dog (Neena) would join her and they would run off into the woods together…who knows if they found something, or if it was just the chicken, or who knows. Honestly after a point the dogs were a bit annoying which led to our decision to pack it in early, but we were pretty tired anyway!

It was a wonderful place to stay, and there was much more to do in the area as far as hiking and such if we stayed another few nights, so I highly recommend this cabin!

In the morning we packed up, said our goodbyes to the dogs (Louie was particularly sad, and did end up walking down to the creek with them one last time) and then headed out on the dirt roads again. We had just under a 2 hour drive to our next stop and wanted to get a good start on the day.

Random thoughts

Arkansas Travelers: Two Nights in Hot Springs

This is part 2 of our Arkansas Post-Covid Vaccination Trip. Go here for part 1, Two Nights in Little Rock.

It’s just about 1 hour drive from Little Rock to Hot Springs, so we did that rather easily. We couldn’t check into our Airbnb until after 3 pm, so we figured we would hit up the National Park first and see what there was to do and get the lay of the land.

Hot Springs National Park is unusual in that it is in the middle of the town of Hot Springs. Hot Springs is an interesting place, for sure, but it also is one of those places that you know has seen better days.

In a nutshell, there are a variety of bathhouses that are from the early 1900’s that have been preserved. The bathhouses were built to use the hot water from the hot springs in order to (the idea goes) improve people’s health. People came from far and wide to take baths and steam in the hot water fresh from the springs in Hot Springs. As time went on, this sort of thing fell out of fashion, and eventually the Park Service decided to preserve the houses for future generations. Only one bathhouse has been functioning the entire time and you can take baths there just like people did back in the day. Other houses have different purposes: a museum, a modern day spa, a store, a brewery, a small hotel, and more. They are all on one side of the street, called Bathhouse Row. On the other side of the street, there are all manner of tourist shops and restaurants, none of which are particularly good (yes, I’m a restaurant snob, but I also don’t need to buy any rocks on my vacation!) and the whole places feels a bit sad. Oh, and there are 4 lanes of traffic whizzing by with limited places to cross.

The National park is great! The surrounding infrastructure needs help. In addition to the bathhouses there is a hill with a grand promenade you can walk on, a variety of scenic drives through the surrounding mountains and quite a few hiking trails. The Park Service also did a great job with a bathhouse museum.

Things that could be improved: more crosswalks, perhaps less lanes to cross—why not make it a two lane road, widen sidewalks on both sides, more crosswalks (did I mention more crosswalks?) That would make it easier to go back and forth and ideally attract slightly more people to improve the eating establishments? Then, the brewery wasn’t open at all one of the days we were there: if you want this to be a tourist destination, day of the week must be irrelevant! And the bathhouse that functions like the old-timey bathhouses, Buckstaff Baths, are nearly impossible to reach via the phone. They need to work on that and answer the phones! Anyway, those are my actual suggestions…I also had other ideas like, add a herd of buffalo…I suppose part of the real problem is that visiting ARKANSAS just isn’t as exciting as visiting Colorado, Yellowstone, or France, and we now have easy access to hot tubs all over the country. But you know what, as you’ll see reading this and my other posts, it was a wonderful place to spend a week of vacation!

Anyway, back to the recap! We found parking easily and headed to Bathhouse Row. We arrived on Memorial Day, and it seemed pretty busy. The sun was shining and it was warm but not too hot. Perfect weather!

A view of bathhouse row. The buildings are each amazing in their own ways, beautiful architecture in a variety of styles.

The Fordyce Bathhouse was our first stop, as there was all manner of terrific information and brochures outside, and a wonderful museum about the history of the bathhouses inside.

I love when Parks do this: just give you ideas of what to do. I usually plan our activities in advance, but sometimes on a longer trip it is impossible to get it all ready and it’s so cool to be able to show up to a visitor’s center and say, okay, here are the cool things to do!

I should digress and say that I had been to Hot Springs before, as part of a road trip in 1989 with my family. I kept a diary of the trip, and gave four pages to Hot Springs. During that visit it seemed we camped at the Gulpha Gorge Campground and went to the museum as well. You can attempt to decipher my handwriting if you want: I did a great job describing the steps of the bath and also documented everything I ate. It starts on June 25.

We went into the museum, which was one way due to COVID. Masks were ambiguously required, so we wore them. It was neat to see all the steps of the baths, especially because…one of the activities we did have planned was a “traditional bathing package” at Buckstaff Baths the next morning.

The men’s floor had some elaborate sculptures and decor!

Where the water came in originally…supposedly…

After the museum, we walked around a bit, just to get a feel of things.

There are really quite a few trails. We followed some short ones, and then decided to do one of the scenic drives, the one around Hot Springs Mountain.

There were a few nice views, and at one point we decided to park and go off on foot on the Hot Springs Mountain Trail. It wasn’t terribly scenic (too many trees!) but it was very nice to walk around on. And it was very pretty!

There is a lookout tower on top of the mountain that you can go up for a price. We decided not to, but I’m sure the view is even nicer up there.

When you get to the end of the scenic drive, you go right by a spring that you can drink from. We filled up some water bottles, and yes, the water WAS very nice! Some of it is hot, some of it isn’t, and it all seemed to taste very clean.

We checked into our Airbnb next. The description said you could walk to the bathhouses, but a few commenters thought that wasn’t the best idea. I had thought we would, but we decided against it…it was a long walk through a less exciting neighborhood. However, it was a perfectly lovely place to stay and was a very short drive from the action.

We decided to have dinner at the brewery since it wasn’t open the next day. We had eaten a very early lunch so we were hungry earlier, and off we went.

The Superior Brewery is in an old bathhouse, which means there are old tile floors everywhere. It was pretty cool, even though we were sort of put in a less exciting room that we’d hoped for. We split a beer sampler and each got a sandwich. It was a fun time!

As we are old people, we went home after dinner and a short walk, and ended up watching TV.

The next morning we woke up to get ready for our baths at Buckstaff Baths. We ended up being ready to go early, so we drove up the other mountain, West Mountain, first, and just stopped at a few viewpoints. It was a rainy/foggy morning.

It was easy to find parking in town at a huge garage which was free and conveniently located. We were still early, so we walked around a bit more and looked at the various nooks and crannies of Bathhouse Row.

Our appointment for Buckstaff Baths was at 10:30 am, and they meant it, not a minute early. So we waited a few minutes, and then everybody who had the 10:30 am time waited in line to get our hands sanitized and fill out forms. Like, literally, they kept wiping down the table in between parties…I totally get businesses are having COVID protocols, but this would all be done if we all just got vaccinated, or if businesses could say, okay, just show your vaccine card and then we don’t have to pretend that taking your temperature and using hand sanitizer will stop the spread of COVID, when the thing that really stops it is the vaccine some of us have gotten…but I digress.

There are separate men’s and women’s floors, so Louie and I said adieu to each other and went our separate ways. (Pandemic living: it is still often weird not seeing him for a few hours). They take you up an elevator to a row of dressing rooms that look like they are from 1912, which they ARE. Buckstaff Baths has been in continuous operation as a bathhouse since then, with limited remodeling, though it was very clean and well taken care of. You get undressed and put your things in a locker and then the attendant wraps you in a sheet, toga style. You go into the next room and get into a bath (this was all described in my journal entries from 1989), and the water is pretty hot. Your attendant helps you get into the bath (be prepared to be undressed in front of her) and then you relax for 20 minutes. They may bring you hot spring water to drink, and you have a loofah to scrub with if you like.

Next you get out and go to an area with places to lie down, and they put hot towels under you and over you, and you lie there and continue relaxing. They will put a cool towel over your face. Next was the steam cabinet, where you sit in literally a cabinet, but have your head out, and you steam. Then you sit in a sitz bath, which is a tiny bathtub you yes, sit in. For me, all of the things in this paragraph I did wearing a sheet, though not always the same one, but Louie said in the men’s baths they were mostly totally naked for these parts. I suppose they think women are more modest. Lastly is the needle shower, a shower with dozens or perhaps hundreds of little needles of water coming at you from all directions.

After that they might take you to a cooling room, but I went straight into my 20 minute massage, which was part of the “traditional bathing package”. Louie ended up waiting in the cooling room for nearly 30 minutes, so I finished first and waited for him outside.

For obvious reasons I didn’t take any photos in the bathhouse, but it was lots of tile and marble and old timey looking stuff. I loved it and would highly recommend! It is really difficult to get in touch with them though, so plan ahead and keep calling. I think I booked about 6 to 8 weeks in advance, but I don’t know if that is necessary.

After our baths we were quite hungry, but wanted to get out of the downtown area for a bit, so we headed out to a restaurant that was near Lake Hamilton. That restaurant ended up being closed, but we found a nearby Mexican place called Jose’s and had a lovely lunch. We decided to visit Garvin Woodland Gardens next which was about 15 minutes away from the restaurant.

The gardens were really beautiful! They were lush and green and full of plants, well thought out, and wonderful to walk through.

There were various paths and bridges to take. We saw a lovely pond with koi which were fun to watch.

You can see it was rainy looking…we had umbrellas with us, but hoped it would hold off.

The gardens were right next to Lake Hamilton and had a few miles of trails that went further from the visitor’s center.

There was an area called the Children’s Gardens with a cave and a huge wooden structure called the Tree House and other neat stuff. We enjoyed it! This picture is taken from inside the cave.

The Treehouse from outside and from inside.

We decided to extend our walk onto a little connected almost island area which was called the Hixson Nature Preserve. It started raining after we walked for a bit though, but we were glad to have our umbrellas.

Until it started pouring, and then we were glad to be wearing shorts, and finally it was thundering and we were just walking as fast as we could to get back to the regular part of the gardens and ideally some sort of shelter.

Just as we were getting back to the Treehouse area we came across a garden employee driving a golf cart, who informed us that the gardens were closed due to the storm and we should head back to the visitor’s center to either wait it out, or we could ask for a refund. Well, DUH it was storming. What he did not do was offer us a ride back! So we got a little further and there was a pavilion of sorts so we stopped under it to take a little break from the rain, and then finally headed the rest of the way back. We didn’t ask for a refund because we had already seen all of the islands anyway, and so we just left.

The pavilion where we rested, which seems to host events and such. I believe it was called the Garvan Pavilion.

After the garden we both just wanted to be drier, so we headed back to our airbnb and cleaned up. We decided to relax a bit, and after awhile headed out for dinner.

We decided to have dinner at Rolando’s which served South American food. When we first got there it was a bit too crowded, so they told us to come back in 30 minutes. We went to walk around, but popped in at the Hot Springs Winery a few doors down and ended up doing a tasting and then purchasing a few bottles. The employee who helped us was super nice and friendly, and it was a nice thing to do while waiting for dinner.

Dinner was good. At this point it was pouring rain outside so we were just glad to be inside!

But also glad to eat some fish tacos, shrimp quesadillas and drink a couple of margaritas. After dinner we went home and watched TV: we watched Unorthodox on Netflix during this segment of the trip.

The next morning we woke up early due to a rooster crowing. He had been crowing the previous morning, but was extra excited this morning. I forgot to add that there was a stray cat around outside that had had food the first night but none the second night, and she was begging us for food for herself and her two kittens who were nearby. I can’t believe I didn’t a take a picture! Louie was heartbroken because we didn’t have any food, but I assume she will be okay: they all looked pretty well fed, not overly so, but good for feral cats. Hopefully whoever left the food will return, or she’ll make it on her own. (We were unclear by something our host had said, whether he was feeding them or if others were.) We checked out of our place then (which just meant we loaded up and left the key in the lockbox, love it) and had one more luxury planned.

Our airbnb in Hot Springs. It was the middle apartment of a triplex, and while it was nice, it was probably the least interesting place we stayed.

We went to Quapaw Bathhouse next, for the Quapaw package for couples. We had decided to splurge a bit on our vacation as we hadn’t done much of anything all year long. The Quapaw package had a couples bath, a massage, and a foot/scalp massage. We checked in  and got changed into robes, and then were taken to our bath. This was a modern bath, a large jacuzzi tub, and we got to spend 20 minutes in it relaxing, then we were given cucumber water and sat around a bit. Next we went to another place to sit around, and finally were taken in for our massages. The massage and foot/scalp massage were one after the other and it was very nice and relaxing. The building was obviously modernized but the area with the baths still had many aspects from the past, but since I was in a robe and didn’t have my phone with me, I didn’t get any pictures either. We both really enjoyed our time at the Quapaw Bathhouse and Spa, but agreed if we had to pick one day, we would do the Buckstaff because it was more unique.

After that, we said goodbye to Hot Springs and headed north. Our next stop was a remote cabin in the Ozarks and was supposed to be about a 3 hour drive, so we planned to arrive by dinner. We had to get some groceries for the cabin, so we stopped at a Walmart about 30 minutes north and then after another hour or so ended up stopping at one more Mexican restaurant for lunch! We decided we had finally gotten caught up on eating at Mexican places after that: we both love Mexican food and hadn’t been to restaurants in so long it seemed like we were making up for lost time, but after the third one in a row we felt satiated, ha!

Let me know if you’ve been to Hot Springs and how your visit compared! Or if now you plan to go to check it out for yourself.