Category Archives: Hiking

Part 2: This is my {Bison} Jam

I spent way too much time on this post. Probably 2-3 hours over time, more than one day!

I sometimes ponder if blogging is a selfish or stupid activity. Probably both, but I have said many times before, I enjoy reading my own blog entries later, especially of vacations, and so…I certainly hope you enjoy reading them, but I know I will! Maybe that’s selfish, but as one of the characters said to another on OITNB in an episode I watched last night, do what you think is best! (That’s not a direct quote, but I spend tooooooo much time worrying about how other people will react to things that I do and I should just do what I want, because that’s generally what people think I do anyway.)

So! The first installment is Part 1 and you should read that first if you are here.

Part 1: What Happened to Scott?

We left off entering Yellowstone National Park. I’d been to Yellowstone two times before—once with Louie a few years before and once as a young teenager back in the early 90’s. Both times were great, and especially the more recent time with Louie. We were SOOOO excited to get back for a few more days—I’d booked three nights at Canyon Campground and one night in a cabin at Mammoth Hot Springs, so we would have plenty of time to delve into exploring and hiking. Of course, once you start looking at all the things one can do, 4 nights doesn’t seem like enough…no matter how much time one spends at these national parks, there can often be more time to spend!

We entered Yellowstone via the Northwest entrance through Silver Gate, and within a few minutes, we were in Lamar Valley, surrounded by bison.

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This was my first bison photo.

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I wanted to take a brush to this one to help shed its fur!

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We were seriously in our happy zone. Louie and I hopped out of the car when we could, snapping pictures and just walking around with wonder and awe. Yellowstone is a place that really has it all: wildlife, gorgeous scenery, and of course, weird hot springs. Lamar Valley isn’t a hot springs area, but wildlife and mountains and water and open valleys and wildlife are plentiful. We slowly made our way forward, stopping over and over to take pictures, until I realized, my goodness, we’d better get a move on if we want to get our campsite set up by dark!

IMG_7104I brought this silly stuffed bison along, thinking I’d use it for a variety of funny photos. This was literally the only one I took.IMG_7114

We stopped at Tower Falls for a quick look at the Yellowstone River. We’d done all of the Yellowstone major stops before, but it’s been a few years! One thing I added for this year was I downloaded an app called “GYPsy Guide” which works with your GPS to tell you interesting information about various  locations and makes suggestions on where and when to stop places. Yellowstone is HUGE and around every corner there are things to see and do, and it’s sometimes overwhelming.

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(Personally I’m just happy watching and listening to the bison. They make these grunts and snorting sounds that are just so fun.)

Anyway, we slowly made our way to Canyon Campground, our home for the next three nights. Check-in went quite smoothly, except evidently I’d said only one adult instead of two, but it was no problem. We got the usual talk about bear safety, and our site had a bear box. They also said to leave food and such in your car if the bear box (a large metal box that bears can’t get into) wasn’t available.

Our site was great—far enough from other sites, yet quite close to the bathroom and water source. A little bit of  trek from the dishwashing area (you are only allowed to wash dishes in a certain room because the scent of food and food scraps would attract the bears) but that’s only once or twice a day. The first two nights our campsite area was very quiet—the third night there were some different people and some were quite loud into the night which was annoying, but at least it was only one night. I’m a fan of quiet camping, where basically all the noise you make doesn’t travel past your own campsite. I shouldn’t hear your conversation and you shouldn’t hear mine. The reason to camp in a National Park is to enjoy nature, which means being quiet enough to do so. That’s my soapbox lecture!

New to us for camping this year was an inflatable air mattress. We’d been using thermarests which are a mixture of foam and air in a small portable mat. This year we bought a small full size air mattress that came with a rechargeable pump. We thought the air might get cold, but thought that the sleeping bag would help with that. Well…Yellowstone was pretty cold—we realized later that our first night there might have been a low of perhaps 38 degrees! The cold was coming from UNDERNEATH us, the air mattress, and there was little we could do…we were wearing numerous pairs of pants, tops, wool socks, etc, but it was pretty chilly the first night, and somewhat chilly the following two nights. Not to spoil, but after leaving Yellowstone we stopped at a Wal-Mart (ugh) and bought a foam mattress pad, kind of an egg crate type thing to put on top of the air mattress and WHEW it was amazing and kept us warm and comfortable. I don’t think it ever got as cold as that first night in Yellowstone again on the trip, but it was down into the 40’s several more times.

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One view of our tent.

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And another. I liked Canyon Campground. We also got two showers each day per campsite at the shower house. There are plenty of services nearby as well. Downside of the campground, only cold water (this is typical in US National Park campground). Upside, fairly clean facilities, good dishwashing area, lots of bear boxes, good fire pits.

On our first night, we were excited to make dinner and a fire. One thing Louie and I really enjoy is relaxing in front of a fire in the evening, so we always buy firewood.

Day 4: We decided to do a short sized hike which started from a trailhead at the Yellowstone Picnic Area for our first hike. It was about 3.7 miles and was supposed to have few nice views. We opted to do it as a loop rather than an out-and-back and I’m not sure I would do that again as the ending part was super annoying. But the trail was great—great views, and we saw several marmots and bighorn sheep. We only saw one other party hiking this trail while we were. By the way, we had a can of bear spray with us on every hike, and we always try to carry several liters of water each, snacks and/or lunch, rain gear, layers in case it gets cold, lights, first aid kit, extra socks, tissues, and a few other random things. Always hike prepared! (Oh, and a map!)

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(As usual, most of the pictures of Louie are here on my camera, and most of the pictures of me are on Louie’s camera, and he hasn’t uploaded his pictures yet because his work schedule this week is insane.)

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We had some lovely views of the Yellowstone River along the route.

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Do you see the marmot?

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How about now?

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After the hike, since we were at a picnic area, we had a little picnic.

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Then we headed to Trout Lake, which was a little ways down the road. We had to go back through Lamar Valley to get there, so there were more bison to look at. Trout Lake is a 1.2 mile loop hike. The start was very steep, but once you got to the lake it was easy, but there were tons of mosquitoes.

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People said they saw foxes,  but we didn’t. It was a beautiful little lake, one of those places in Yellowstone that should be busy but wasn’t too bad.

Then we headed back toward the middle loop of the park. We took a side trip up a little gravel road called Chittenden Road which overlooks the start of a trail to Mt. Washburn.

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We drove through a bit of Hayden Valley to go visit the Mud Volcano area. We headed there to see some thermal features, but also because on our previous visit we’d always seen bison there and loved the look of the bison frolicking with steam and thermal features near them. We didn’t see any this time, but still enjoyed seeing the springs.

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Then we headed back to the campground to shower, make dinner, and rest.

Day 5: We got up early to hike Mt. Washburn. We left from the Dunraven Pass trailhead rather than the Chittenden Road one, and got there before 8 am to make sure of a parking spot and to get a good start on the hike. At first, there were only a few other groups hiking, but as the morning progressed it got quite busy. The whole hike was 6.2 miles and wasn’t as hard as I thought it would be. The views along the way were absolutely spectacular, and it was full of wildflowers. We really enjoyed this hike. The downside was that the whole trip was doubletrack, an old road, and when we got to the top there were actually workers who had driven up the other trail to get to work, which makes you feel like, well, why did I hike if they drove? The top is a lookout/fire tower, and there is actually somebody who stays there all the time to watch for fires!

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My photos don’t do the view justice, but in this one you can see the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. The views were of the whole park, the Canyon, Lake Yellowstone, and you can see various thermal features in the distance with steam rising from them.

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This was the tower, and the trucks that some workers drove up. To be fair, I wouldn’t have wanted to drive up the road either, so I guess it was better hiking! The tower had a room with some displays, bathrooms (of a sort), and a viewing platform. It also contained an apartment that you couldn’t go in. We had our lunch at the top.

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Proof that we made it! We did a lot of “trading photos” with people, though we were always happy to just take photos without trading, but usually we took advantage and got the photo also.

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We enjoy taking selfies too though!

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Gorgeous views!

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We saw a few bighorn sheep, and then we had a very close encounter with one (we did back up, but we didn’t want to run away, so we just tried to stay still and not frighten it), and then we saw a bunch!

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Going down the hike was easier than up, but it was hotter on the way down. We made it though!

Next we headed back to Hayden Valley and wanted to do a short trail called the Storm Point Nature Trail. We had a tricky time at first because of construction through the area…there was a flagger with a one road way and we had to wait and then couldn’t find the trailhead…we drove further, saw some more amazing views and some viewpoints we’d never seen, had a somewhat harrowing experience of what I called “stealth peeing”, and then finally found what we thought was the trail and thoroughly enjoying it…even making it all the way through not being 100 percent sure we were on the right trail, meeting a woman with two kids asking if this was the trail, telling her, probably, but either way it was great! and then finally noticing the trail sign, which had fallen over and was laying facedown in the dirt.

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A good old fashioned bison jam. Why yes, I took that picture out of the sunroof.

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Lake Yellowstone, along our hike I believe.

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After that, we headed back, showers, etc.

Day 6: We woke up early to head to see the Grand Canyon North Rim. On our last visit we’d done a really great hike on the South Rim so we thought we’d do a quick visit to the North Rim. We got to the parking lot quite early, before 8 am, and the crowds were minimal. We walked down a very steep trail to the bottom of the falls.

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The canyon is really amazing. We were also able to see Uncle Tom’s Trail from our viewpoint, which is this terrifying trail with 328 steps on the south rim (closed for construction this year) which I never want to hike again.

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We got back to the top and then wandered to a few more viewpoints. Louie decided to hike down another trail but I stayed above and just looked from there.

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Finally we left to go pack up our tent.

Our next step would be the Norris Geyser Basin. We got there just before noon and as expected, it was crowded. We parked outside of the parking lot on the street and walked for 10 to 15 minutes to get there.

We’d been to Norris before as well, but Louie wanted to see it again because he remembered loving it so much. I was happy to oblige.

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What I always find most interesting is how there will be an area where no plants grow, but then they do. Life continues, no matter how difficult it is!

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Look at those grasses!

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It just looks like a post-apocalyptic scene. Or a war zone. But it’s natural. (Remember, even natural things can be bad.)

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After Norris, we headed north towards Mammoth. I’d booked a cabin (with no private bathroom) for us to stay our last night for two reasons: 1) It’s closer to the north exit thus saving us at least an hour drive in the morning as we head north to Glacier 2) We’d seen cabins before and Louie remarked that someday when we were older and richer we should come back and stay in one. We aren’t much richer, or much older, but they weren’t too expensive for one night!

Mammoth Hot Springs. This place is crazy too.

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Here we had a bit of parking snafu, which involved getting what was actually an awesome parking space and then panicking. But it worked out, and we were also thrilled to realize at one point that we had good internet, plus, it looked like it was going to storm, so we spent a few minutes in our car catching up on emails and checking voicemails and such. Then we headed out to explore the “terraces.” Here the springs make these weird terraces. Some of the springs flow every year, and then they will abruptly stop, so you’ll see a lot of old springs which just look like ugly rocks now, that used to be live! There’s a whole loop road where only a few of the springs are still running and the rest are dormant, and it’s sort of funny to see.

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Speaking of wastelands…

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You can see how the boardwalks are being taken over by the hot springs. Soon the park service will have to rebuild!

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I believe this was called Canary Spring and it is utterly gorgeous. I couldn’t take enough pictures of it, especially with the dark stormy skies as contrast.

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Here’s one of the more dormant areas I was talking about above.

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Do you see a face?

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We checked into our cabin then, and it was super cute.

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They had soap in the shape of bears. I thought we took this with us but I don’t know what happened to it.

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Little ground squirrels digging holes or something. I took a fall off the steps later than night on my way to the bathroom (bathrooms were around the corner a bit, though the cabin had a sink so that was great)…I hit the floor completely and was shocked, but not hurt—luckily I fell into the grass.

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We cleaned up and put on jeans and t-shirts rather than hiking gear, and then walked over to see a few more springs before deciding to eat dinner at the Mammoth Dining Room. This was our first dinner out in a few nights, so it was a welcome relief to not cook over the little stove! I enjoyed a nice piece of trout, and we had a lovely evening. After dinner we walked around a bit more and saw a ton of elk just hanging around the town.

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I slept great in a real bed (yay!) and not being cold (remember, this was BEFORE the foam pad, so we were still pretty cold each night) and would highly recommend the cabins. The only downside is that Mammoth isn’t particularly convenient of a location to anything except Mammoth, so I wouldn’t stay there too many nights. I want to go back in the winter sometime though, as it’s a part of the park that is open in winter.

Day 7: We woke up and had breakfast at the Terrace Grill, which is a fast food place. Breakfast sandwiches, coffee, more elk (well, not to eat but to watch) and then we hit the road for Glacier.  We went out the North Entrance (exit) and stopped to get pictures with the Roosevelt Arch on our way.

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Goodbye Yellowstone! Next stop: Glacier National Park.

To be continued…

Phoenix, Lewis and Clark, Etc.

Oh my goodness! I decided to spend more of my free time reading books and less of it doing other stuff, so I haven’t told you about anything lately. (I’ve developed an obsession with the Philippa Gregory books.)

I promised I’d tell you about our hike on the Lewis and Clark Trail the other day.

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We’d hoped to do the whole thing, but it turned out part of it was underwater, so we hiked about 3 miles and turned back when we had to. It was a nice hike! Pretty busy, some bugs, a little humid, but it’s a very scenic hike (for Missouri…) and it was enjoyable.

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Where the trail ended. It’s a loop so we could have hiked from the opposite direction as well, but we went the more popular way.

Afterwards we needed to use the restroom, so we popped into the Weldon Springs Conservation Area Interpretive Center. Um, that place was a little crazy.

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Those rocks are covering a pile of stuff that is covering up all sorts of radioactive material. It’s perfectly safe, they say, but it’s pretty crazy that it exists, and that you can climb up the mountain! Between that and watching Chernobyl…anyway, the Center is worth a stop in and the two rangers working there (a husband and wife team) were very knowledgeable and eager to share their knowledge with visitors. And the bathrooms were excellent.

Over the last weekend I went to Phoenix to visit my sister Leslie and her family, including my brand new nephew! It was a low key visit as far as leaving the house to do things, because it was a bit too hot outside for much activity, and especially activity involving a very tiny baby. We did go to a neat brewery and a “build your own enchilada” place, and we got Stroopwaffle McFlurries.

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Tonight we are going to a Young Friends Opera performance. Tomorrow I’m playing with Weird Al (so fun!!) and then Sunday is a day off and dinner with my friend April who is visiting from Atlanta. Looking forward to it!

If it’s nearly holy week I might be getting sick

Louie had a cold last week and over the weekend, and I woke up with a bit of a sore throat. I’m hopeful it’s not happening though, and I’m drinking lots of water. I tend to get sick around Easter for unknown reasons (seriously, my timehop app can prove it) but this time I’m determined not to. (It is completely out of my control.)

Well, after that literary start, welcome to today’s post. I thought I’d blogged about the weekend already, but that must have just been instagram. My weekend was pretty busy—this month is full of gigs and makeup lessons, so I had some of that over the weekend. We also had a dinner party at a friend’s house, dinner with Louie’s family, and best of all, a recital by Gil Shaham as part of the Great Artists Series at Washington University. As nice as it is to go to the symphony, it’s really awesome to see solo performances by world class musicians—it’s a different artistic experience entirely. I wish there was a monthly concert by some great string player! I guess you have to live in New York for that sort of thing.

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We also got to enjoy the amazing weather a bit. Louie and I took a hike in Broemmelsiek Park. This was in the book I use, but it turned out that the park had been changed quite a bit since the book was published. We still had a nice time hiking.

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This reminded Louie of Horseshoe Bend in Colorado.

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There are always lots of nice bridges in local parks.

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It was a muddy path, but nice to wander through the prairie and woods.

I also decided to go for a run…it had been quite some time. Last spring I’d hurt my knee a bit, and then I just stopped running. In any case, I thought it might be a good day to get back at it, and as a sign, when I opened Runkeeper there was a new program to follow to get back into running. So I’ve done two of the days, and it’s been a challenge, but fun. I seem to recall there was a period of time I enjoyed running, and maybe that would be a thing I could do again. I’ve been doing Walk At Home videos by Leslie Sansone, and Blogilates Videos with Cassey Ho, and I’m ready to run too.  I’ve made out a schedule, and especially towards summer I have more time.

I know people say you have to make time, but sometimes the time just isn’t there, or sometimes I just need to get some sleep more. I do occasionally work from early in the morning until late at night, and if there’s more than one or two days of that, I really start to value my sleep. Don’t we all? I know I’m hardly the busiest person in the world, but some days it does seem like it! Other days are like today, where I have the morning off to get caught up on work, practice, and work out AND I’m done teaching by 7:15, in time for an “early” dinner and an evening to relax a bit.

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The students have their annual Music Club Festival this weekend. I’ve got 9 performing, and we’ve been working hard to get ready. I’m hopeful that they will be successful! I also have two doing Solo and Ensemble this weekend, but that’s through their schools so at least I don’t have to do anything more. Sometimes it seems like more trouble than it’s worth to do these events, but I do think the kids learn a lot and it’s a good goal to work towards. I don’t do group lessons and only a few of the students have orchestra at their schools (not many in the city have that opportunity), so it’s hard to keep them motivated.

Between that, various church services, two concerts Friday (noon and evening), teaching, and a band gig at the Schlafly Tap Room Saturday night, I’m definitely hoping I’m not getting sick, as this is a busy two weeks with excellent health. But I’ll manage either way: I always do! The weather is gorgeous, spring is definitely here, and there is less than a month left until college classes are done! (To me, that means summer is here Smile )

Winter Hiking

Louie and I have been prioritizing doing some hiking when possible this winter. Sometimes we have too much going on to manage, but again we were able to last Saturday! We hit up Russell E. Emmenegger Nature Park (another 60 Hikes in 60 Miles hike) for a short hike first. It had snowed the night before, but much of the snow had melted off the paths already.

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You start the loop by crossing that bridge. Then there are some paved paths at first, but an unpaved trail went off to the right, so we took that. It actually wasn’t exactly right, we don’t think, or we missed something, because we had to cut up ridge and then we found the trail again. This was a nice hike, with some elevation change too. The main downside was the highway noise—the park is located right near the intersections of Interstate 44 and 270 and the noise is LOUD. An advantage to the location is that it’s closer to get to, since it’s just off the highway Winking smile

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I thought the winter landscape was really nice.

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I have a friend that likes to hashtag some of her posts “nerdmarriage”. I think this picture of Louie doesn’t need a hashtag.

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I think my eyes are shut, but my eyes were shut in more than one of these photos. I got a lightweight winter coat for hiking. It might make me look more like a potato than I would prefer, but it was comfortable, and it’s lightweight and squishes down quite a bit. Amazon basics, y’all.

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One part of the trail took us up on a ridge over the Meramec River. It was pretty! There’s quite a lot of development around the park, but that doesn’t mean that the park isn’t pretty.

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After our hike, we decided to head to Powder Valley Conservation Center which was also in the 60 Hikes book and which we had passed on our way to Emmenegger.

Powder Valley has a very nice visitor’s center with some lovely displays and taxidermy. I think especially kids like it, as it looks set up well for families and field trips. We poked around a bit after using the restrooms.

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Not a real raccoon, but it is real.

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I don’t think that is the bear that broke into our car.

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While posing for this photo we got passed by a couple with two small children who likely thought I was strange. I enjoy posing with fake animals at zoos and whatnot.

We started to take another short hike, but the path was paved and ICY and I decided I didn’t want to risk falling, so we turned back. Evidently all the paths there are paved, which isn’t my favorite—I understand they are more accessible, but they are also harder on the knees and not quite as nature-y. We might head back someday to check it out further.

After that little jaunt, we went to the symphony that night and saw an all-Prokofiev concert. It was great, particularly one part in Alexander Nevsky where the choir was absolutely screaming at us in Russian (they put their hands up by their mouths and everything.) The concert was a little long though, and I was exhausted…am I the only one who things that concerts should be on average two hours long and max 2:15, and this one was over 2 1/2 hours. Or they should start earlier, or something. I know I sound old—I feel old and tired! A funny thing at the concert was at the beginning when an elderly woman sitting in front of us turned around to yell at either Louie or the woman on his other side for kicking her chair.

We booked a weekend trip to Eureka Springs, Arkansas with another couple in May, and I’m excited. Between Branson, Eureka Springs, and then the mega road trip this summer it will be a fun travel year! I find that I’m mostly enjoying reading and planning travel lately, as I’m a bit unmotivated and worn down by music and life generally. I don’t know if this is a midlife crisis (mid-career certainly—I realized I’m basically at the halfway point if I plan to retire around 62), or what, but like I’ve been blogging about, I’m tired. I probably need to seek out a few more new things to mix it up, but I’m okay just coasting right now.

And we are supposed to get more “winter weather” this evening. Hopefully this doesn’t keep people away from our quartet concert at the Sheldon. (Probably it will…ugh.)

Bangert Island

I had the day off today so Louie and I thought it would be fun to take a short hike somewhere. He’s pretty swamped with work, so we wanted something nearby, not too long, but still “a hike” rather than a walk. I found Bangert Island in Steve Henry’s 60 Hikes in 60 Miles, and off we went!

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It’s a little easy to miss the last turn, so pay close attention. And take my advice, don’t attempt to drive on the Katy Trail. But do check out this hike if you want an easy hike that takes you out of your everyday life and into the woods. It’s in St Charles, and right along the Missouri River. It was cold but sunny, so we just bundled up a bit. The paths weren’t well marked, but we just mostly stayed to the right at every option, and pretty much hiked all the way around. It’s technically an island, I guess, but there’s just a little stream in between and a bridge you can go over easily. They say in high water this is not the place to be. Oh, and a note to readers: the map in my 60 hikes book is out of date, and in retrospect I should have printed out the map online which I now realize is a little different. (And then I went down the rabbit hole, which ended with finding out that there’s a new edition of the book coming out in November, so I’ll have to get that!)

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This picture was taken from the little bridge to get across to Bangert Island from the trailhead.

I’d thought it wouldn’t be muddy since it was cold, but that turned out not to be true. It was muddy in a few spots but not enough that we regretted our choices. My boots will be fine after they dry.

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I always enjoy seeing the Missouri River up close. I had to work hard to keep the casino across the river out of my shot though.

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We took a selfie that I wanted to share here, but it only shows up upside down. This is an occasional issue that I have never been able to solve.  You can look for it on Instagram!

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All in all it was a nice 3 or so miles of “wandering around in the woods” and a nice diversion. It was pretty flat so not difficult or taxing, but it was nice to be in a wild area in winter—everything was DEAD and grey and brown, though we did see a fair amount of (live) birds, and a quick glimpse of a really beautiful woodpecker with a red plume! We only saw a few other people hiking, so it felt quiet and pretty deserted.

A downside is that you are really close to the highway and can hear it pretty well on the north side of the island, but it’s kind of fun to be in the woods hearing the cars and feeling a sort of odd separation.

In any case, it was a lovely way to spend part of the afternoon. I would recommend checking out Bangert Island if you want an easy hike to take your mind off life’s stresses.

Pere Marquette State Park

Louie and I had Sunday off, so we decided to drive up to Grafton, Illinois to hike at Pere Marquette State Park. I’d been there before to play a couple of weddings, but never to hike. I knew the drive would be beautiful as well-after you go through Alton you drive along the Mississippi River on the Great River Road.

The weather was sunny and a little bit cool, so perfect weather for hiking. We parked by the visitor’s center (which was closed even though the parking lot was practically full—make a note of that if you expect to pick up a trail map at the visitor’s center) and headed out.

If you look at the trail map, we went up the Dogwood to the Ridge Trail, (to the highest point,McAdams Peak) to Hickory, to Hickory North, and then back around on Hickory South. We debated the Fern Trail, but decided to go head for lunch instead. We’d hoped to hike the Goat Cliff trail, but it was REALLY muddy/looked flooded at the beginning so we decided against it.

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The fall colors are here, though not super strong, and it was just really pretty.

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It’s worth pointing out that the river was pretty high all along the road, and on the river side of the park we saw a picnic shelter which was partially under water. After our hike we walked over to check out the Lodge, which was built by the CCC in the 1930’s. It’s worth checking out if you are in the area.

Next, we headed back towards Alton to visit the Old Bakery Beer Company. I’d heard good things about the brewery, and when I saw they had an Impossible Burger and a vegetarian Reuben on the menu I knew we had to try it. It was good! We split a flight of beers and had sandwiches.

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All in all, it was a really nice day. Nothing too strenuous, but just fresh air, good food, and good company.

When we got home I of course had a headache from (probably) the beer. Afternoon drinking is never good for me, even though I enjoyed tasting the beers. I had thought to go to a concert at Wash U that evening, but I just didn’t have the energy and thought it would make my headache worse, so I just relaxed and lay down while Louie did some work.

We both have this Sunday off again too so we are planning another Sunday Funday! It’ll be the last one before Christmas, so hopefully the weather is good enough to get some outside activities in. My backup plan had been to go to IKEA, so that’s always an option Winking smile