Category Archives: Travel

Bouldering in Boulder (Road Trip Part 2)

I think it’s time I actually look up what “bouldering” means. An ongoing theme of our trip was me misusing it. Or just using it to mean climbing over rocks, which I’m not entirely sure isn’t somewhat correct.

Part 1: There and Back Again

Now for Part 2–

Day 3: We woke up in Denver and took advantage of the excellent indoor plumbing. We drank coffee with Derek and Sarah for a bit and then took off. We made a quick visit to REI’s flagship store nearby and then drove to Boulder, which was only about 30 minutes. Leslie and Peter play with the Colorado Music Festival, well, this summer Peter was playing and Leslie was on leave/subbing due to somebody needing to take care of the baby.

IMG_3918
That baby. Such a cutie.

We met Leslie in their place at Creekside, which is code for really terrible housing. Thanks Colorado Music Festival! But they had the apartment fixed up very nicely for a baby and they were eagerly awaiting our arrival. After Peter got done with rehearsal we had lunch at Next Door at the Kitchen, or the Kitchen Next Door, or who really knows. It was tasty though, and that’s what mattered. Boulder is a cute town, and is honestly really busy and crowded, no matter what time of day or week, it seems, which means it’s pretty touristy, I guess? I’d visiting a few years prior but it was fun to go with Louie and also to see my little niece.

IMG_3923
That’s her looking annoyed that she was eating peas off the table when we were getting delicious shrimp tacos and salmon salad sandwiches and whatnot.

IMG_3920

After lunch Louie and I needed to go meet our Air BNB host, a woman named Alexia. We’d rented a small guest cottage for 3 nights. It was easy enough to find, though a little scary as it was up a steep gravel driveway that the Corolla had a little trouble with. (Did I mention this whole trip was made in a Corolla? Packed to the gills!)

IMG_3110

The place was adorable—a little cabin in the woods basically. With outdoor plumbing…and no hot water. Such would be the theme of our trip. But the cabin had electricity…mostly…IMG_3926

After getting settled we decided to head to Chautauqua to do a little hiking (we decided this was going to be a hiking intensive vacation and had no intention of being lazy, ha!) while waiting for Athena to wake up from her nap. We’d just gotten parked and started when Leslie called, so they headed over to meet up. Together we hiked the McClintock Trail to Woods Quarry, which seemed so hard at the time! Altitude is no joke!

IMG_3932 IMG_3941 IMG_3950

It was a nice hike for a late afternoon and we worked up a good appetite for Pizzeria Locale. After dinner Louie and I walked around Pearl Street while Leslie and Peter had to put Athena to bed. Louie had been to Boulder as a child and remembered seeing a “loose rope walker” called Evan from Heaven and being friendly with him. (There are lots of street performers on Pearl Street.) We didn’t see Evan, but later googled him and were fascinated.

Day 4: We woke up and had muffins and coffee in our cabin. The bathroom situation was a little funny, but manageable. The toilet required water to flush, so you’d go, flush, and then refill it with water from a bucket and refill the bucket to prepare the next user.

Louie and I decided to hike to the Royal Arch this morning and then meet up with folks for lunch. I’d hiked to the Royal Arch in the past, but I didn’t remember it being so difficult! Some of the hike was changed, but honestly, I think I just forget how hard stuff is. In fact, I’ve already forgotten how challenging the hike was. Either way it took us much longer than we thought it would take and we were at least an hour later getting down the mountain than we’d anticipated.

IMG_3955 IMG_3956

IMG_3959

I met up with Leslie and Peter for lunch and we got burritos at a place called Illegal Pete’s. I had a giant fish burrito and it was delicious. Probably illegal 😉

IMG_3124

We just hung out in the afternoon (I showered at the apartment…) and then for “dinner” we went to the mashup concert at Colorado Music Festival. Leslie was playing this concert instead of Peter—it was a singer called Storm Large, who none of us had ever heard up. So the mashup means it is a crossover concert or a mix of classical and popular music. PLUS they set up tents beforehand with samples of food and drink from a variety of local restaurants, so we gorged ourselves on sushi, ice cream, iced coffee, beer, and other random bites. Honestly we didn’t eat too much, but it was tasty and the price was right..especially since we had comp tickets.

IMG_3136

IMG_3965
Of course, we made a quick stop at the playground. Somebody loves swinging.

Of course, we made a quick stop at the playground. Somebody loves swinging.

IMG_3973

IMG_3974
Athena might have thought Louie was too big for the swing, but she seemed to love having him swing next to her.

IMG_3975

Athena might have thought Louie was too big for the swing, but she seemed to love having him swing next to her.

We took the bus back from the concert (which, for the record, I hated so much, but Louie seemed to enjoy it, so I assume I wasn’t the target audience…) to Creekside (Leslie/Peter’s apartment) and then some of us went to a place called the Dark Horse for a drink and another snack. We ended up ordered something called Rocky Mountain Oysters there, and I wasn’t too impressed 😉

When we got home to our cabin we didn’t have any power! We’d had to have our flashlights out in order to get up the stairs to it, so it wasn’t a disaster, but still, no fun. We went to bed right away then, after texting our “landlord.”

Day 5:

We woke up and Alexia had left a note saying we could use a bathroom in a nearby house until 2 pm, and that she had called the electrician. We met Leslie at the Chautauqua Dining Hall for breakfast since we couldn’t use the hotplate in the room for coffee and figured, what the heck, let’s just eat out. It was a really nice place to eat! We sat outside and they had a variety of vegetarian options—I had a “tofu scramble” and it was very tasty.

After breakfast Louie and I went to hike up Green Mountain on the West Ridge Trail. Leslie and Peter recommended it as a very different view than what you get from the Chautauqua area so it sounded like a lot of fun.

IMG_3986 IMG_3992

IMG_3995 IMG_3998

IMG_4003

There were some steep rocky bits but mostly the trail was really nice and enjoyable and it was fun to do a trail that actually went to the top of a mountain. After getting our daily hike in we stopped by Whole Foods and picked up supplies for lunch—Leslie and Peter had already eaten so we just headed over to eat our lunch and hang out. Once Peter was done working we all went to the Avery Brewing Company for dinner.

IMG_3132
Coolers are so much fun!

Avery is great for trying beers because you can order a tiny size of many of the beers. I had a few different ones, but I can’t remember what they were, except the last one, which was a raspberry sour beer. I wasn’t sure about ordering it, and then they ended up bringing me a larger glass of it by accident, so I ended up with a lot of this beer I didn’t really like, so that kind of ended my sampling. I had the “sloppy seitan” for dinner which was like a sloppy joe except with seitan instead of beef. It was really surprisingly good!

IMG_4011

After dinner we walked along the Boulder Creek for a bit before Athena had to go to bed. Our power was back on that night.

Day 6: We woke up and had to pack up, and decided also to take “peace corps” showers! We didn’t take selfies as Alexia had recommended, but we did get some pictures…

IMG_4015

IMG_3139

IMG_3141

IMG_3142

Louie wanted to hike the Flatiron trail while I wanted to relax, so we ended up first eating breakfast at the Chautauqua Dining Hall again (this time I had veggie sausage gravy with biscuits, awesome!) before he hiked, Peter went to rehearsal, and I went to do laundry at Leslie’s apartment so we’d have clean clothes at the beginning of the trip. Boring but necessary…as today we were headed to Rocky Mountain National Park. The morning flew by and then it was lunch time…and Athena hadn’t woken up, so everything got a bit off schedule as we had to wait for her to wake up. Louie and I got some groceries, including a variety of trail mixes, some snacks that involved okra and I don’t know how to explain, and a few other things to supplement the rice and beans and whatnot that we already had. We went for lunch at a nearby Asian place and had some nice noodles before saying our goodbyes. And we were off on the Peak-to-Peak highway, heading to Nederland and then Rocky Mountain National Park. It was sad to leave, but we’ll see them again soon! Athena will be walking by then though, and maybe reading and talking as well…the things you miss when you live too far away 🙁

There and back again (Road Trip Part 1)

And so it begins.

Regular blog readers know I have a tendency to take a long time to write trip recaps…and I hope you are okay with that. My trip to Italy in May took awhile to write about, but writing all about it was important to me. This trip was longer, though I think I’ll try to break up the posts by location rather than day. Nonetheless, I plan to share pictures and stories and all that good stuff over the course of the next…few weeks?…and hopefully you will enjoy it! My other goal for the fall (other than to recap this trip, ha) is to blog more often so perhaps I’ll try to intersperse non-travel posts to keep people more interested.

SO.

Day 1: August 1. It’s convenient that this trip started on the 1st of the month, isn’t it? We woke up early and finished packing up and loading the car. We’d taken the cats to Louie’s mom’s house and the dog to a friend’s house, and we were good to go by 10:00 am. Our first stop was in Kansas City at Arthur Bryant’s BBQ. I’d had their sauce before (Louie loved it) but I hadn’t been. Louie had gone before so he knew it was worth “breaking” our vegetarian diet for.

IMG_3093
It’s probably not important to tell you this, but I didn’t eat that all by myself.

After a late lunch, we headed to Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve. When I started planning this trip I wanted to do something fun on our first day. I realize when people think of fun they don’t normally think of Kansas, but I thought doing a little hiking in the prairie would be something we didn’t ordinarily enjoy…and I was right!

As usual when hiking, finding the beginning of a planned trail can be a bit tricky. Does anybody have this problem or is it just me?

The visitor’s center was closed but had a neat design—it went over a covered path. There were lovely clean bathrooms as well, and a little horse in a pen with a sign saying his name was Badger and he was friendly and loved to be petted.

IMG_3870

After a few false starts we found the trail I wanted us to take. One of the things that drew me to the place was knowing that they have a bison herd. Yes, I knew we’d be seeing more bison, but I really wanted to see some right away. We headed out on the Scenic Overlook Trail and noted how pretty Kansas was! And not flat…which meant that the approximately 6 mile hike I’d planned that I thought would be fairly flat and easy ended up taking quite a bit longer…

IMG_3872 IMG_3878

The sun was also hotter than I’d realized, and I was just hiking in jean shorts and a top, not my usual sporting wear. Oh well.

We did see a couple of bison from a GREAT distance. Not really visible to the naked eye, but Louie had a zoom lens on his DSLR camera that we could see them in…barely. And then at one point on the hike we completely lost the trail. We thought we had it, and then we thought we saw it ahead, and spent some time traipsing through the grass (which wasn’t super tall yet) and finally feeling relieved when we did indeed see the trail again. No idea what happened, but at least we got back on track. We came across a cow then, one just hanging out near us. She seemed a little wary, so we tried to keep our distance, but Louie was taking pictures (I got really hot and tired and was just trying to keep up at this point!) and then she got startled and ran away. I am not used to seeing cows running so it was pretty entertaining, even though we felt bad.

Finally we found our way back to the car, passing by some old buildings and such. It was pretty much dark by then, which meant we spent a lot of more time hiking than I’d intended us to, but we were prepared with headlamps just in case, so it wasn’t something we needed to worry about. I learned from our trip last year!

IMG_3882

We had a reservation in Salina for a motel, which was about 1:45 away. We were both exhausted by this point, but that wasn’t too far to go. It was a lot of backroad driving though, and at one point the road we were on was closed for construction. As in, we got to a intersection and the road was just closed. No warning that I recall or noticed! We turned left and hoped the GPS would find our way—it did, but not before sending us down a street than became a very bumpy gravel road. THANKS A LOT.

We stayed at the Best Inn in Salina. It was cheap and clean and plenty fine for the night.

Day 2: The next day we got up and hit the road for Denver Colorado. Louie has some friends who recently moved to Denver and we planned to visit and stay with them. By recently I do mean in the last few weeks! The drive was pretty boring but uneventful…honestly, when people talk about how boring Kansas is to drive through, I think they mean the first part of Colorado. Kansas is pretty enough for awhile, but then it just gets flat and boring, and then you hit Colorado, and you think, yay, mountains, but NO it’s more of the same, and in fact might be more Kansas-y than Kansas itself.

Anyway, we got to Denver and met up with Louie’s friends Derek and Sarah, who live in the Highlands neighborhood, one of those trendy types of neighborhoods. We walked to a nearby brewery (Denver Beer Company), and then dinner (The Ale House), and then walked around the river for a bit before hitting the hay. Hitting the sack?

IMG_3895 IMG_3911

IMG_3912
Pondering our future.

Anyway, we didn’t think so much of it at the time, but that night in Denver was the last time for awhile that we had a room with a bed and an easily accessible bathroom with hot water and a shower.

Next stop: Boulder!

Home Sweet Home

I’ll use this title again, possibly for the third, fourth time. As much fun as traveling and vacationing is, getting home is always nice. It’s the little things, like having all possible options of clothing available to me, and having a shelf for my toiletries in the bathroom without having to dig in a small bag hoping I have what I need. Plus seeing the pets, and looking forward to making music and teaching again (see! I’m looking forward to these things rather than being horribly burnt out!)

So where did I leave you? I have so much to blog about! Louie and I had a fantastic road trip from August 1 through 19. I’ll be telling you all about it over the next week or two, but today I’m just popping in.

Here’s what we did:

1 night in Kansas

1 night in Denver, CO

3 nights in Boulder, CO

3 nights in Rocky Mountain National Park

2 nights in Grand Teton National Park

3 nights in Yellowstone National Park

1 night in Lovell, WY

2 nights in Custer State Park

1 night at the Badlands, SD

1 night in Kansas City

and then home!

It was glorious. We tent camped for 9 nights,  and only had private bathrooms for 4 of the total nights. We saw black bears, moose, bison, elk, deer, bald eagles, a beaver, pikas, marmots, ground squirrels and chipmunks, river otters, and more. We hiked over 50 miles, drove over 3000, and even white water rafted. It was an awesome trip.

Before the trip, I had a concert at the Tavern of Fine Arts. I had been so stressed about it…gosh it seems so far away. We had a wonderful crowd and I felt really good about how it went overall. And then the next day we got up early and loaded up the car and headed west. What a whirlwind of a month!

Some action shots from the concert…I look very serious in all of them. Violin playing IS serious business.

IMG_3074 IMG_3075

IMG_3078 IMG_3079

I’ll be back soon to tell you more!

IMG_3114

Chartreuse

It was great to have my sister Carrie visit last week. It seems that everybody only wants to visit for 15-20 hours lately, but I will take what I can get! Besides, I suppose it’s better when people leave before you are sick of them, right? Carrie was here to visit but mostly to play a concert with her modern music trio, Chartreuse.

IMG_3024 IMG_3026

IMG_3028

IMG_3031

The concert was great! They played with great passion and energy, and it was a really enjoyable performance (at the Tavern of Fine Arts). I ate dinner there, and though the food is always tasty, I really miss their old menu with the sandwiches. I DO appreciate that their wine list has some very affordable options. They stayed overnight and then had to rush off to some other important thing, as one does when one is young (early 20’s!)

I was thinking about that just a bit ago—my friend April is currently in Colorado on vacation and is in Breckenridge. I spent two summers playing with the National Repertory Orchestra in Breckenridge, and while I did love it at the time, I don’t think I truly appreciated it. Youth, and the youth travel opportunities, especially music festivals, are wasted on the young. Here I am, simply salivating for my upcoming vacation, and when I was younger this was mostly old hat for my summers. I went to all manner of summer festivals (Breckenridge, Interlochen, Sewanee), had various trips to Europe, family road trips to various National Parks, family trips to the beach and the closer-by mountains, to see relatives, and all kinds of great stuff. I think it’s obviously important for young people to do great things, but when you read an old trip journal about how your parents were really lame for wanting to go see the sunset over the Grand Canyon while you and your siblings were playing a serious game in the tent instead…well…you know how kids are!

All that to say I am positively chomping at the bit to go on our road trip. Louie and I are going for over two weeks—our itinerary includes Boulder, Rocky Mountain National Park, Grand Teton, Yellowstone, the Black Hills, and the Badlands. We are mostly camping other than in Boulder where we’ve gotten an AirBNB (my first time!), and plan to do lots of hiking and scenic driving, campsite cooking, see tons of buffalo(my favorite, at least when I was a kid, and I still get excited thinking about them!), take pictures, maybe even keep a journal, write a million blog posts, and have a generally wonderful time. We will also be visiting my sister Leslie and seeing my niece Athena for a few days (in Boulder where they play in a summer festival) to kick off the trip. I really can’t wait to get away and relax and sightsee. It might not actually be a terribly relaxing vacation, but it will be very scenic and should be pretty epic! (Are people still saying that?) I’ve got lists galore going on—packing list, itinerary list (the most fun to make!), what to do before we leave list, list of good meals for camping so that we don’t panic in the grocery store on the way, all that kind of stuff.

All this is happening simultaneously with finishing up my last week of summer teaching (it’ll be fall schedule when I’m back!) and practicing for my recital on Friday. I’ve embraced where I am for my preparation and have decided that it is good enough and I don’t need to stress out so much. And we closed the show “The Runaway Cupcake” with some lovely reviews and though I’m glad to be slightly less busy, I really loved playing in it, and was so glad to meet some wonderful actors and actresses. Maybe something I’ll do again someday!

So I’m glad I stopped by to write. I reread my last two blog posts and I sounded so stressed out and overwhelmed. I’m in a much better place right now! Just ready to be on vacation, I guess 🙂

IMG_3036

Getting home is never really worth the trouble

Here we are. The last blog post about my trip to Italy in May. It’s the end of an era, and then you’ll just have to hear about my regular life again, at least until our road trip in August.

Rome wasn’t built in a day and neither will I blog about it in one day

The Appian Way

The Vatican Museum is just one long line to see the Sistine Chapel

The Colosseum

All sorts of good things

Skulls and Femurs and Tibias, oh my?

Onward and Upward to Orvieto

We woke up in Orvieto. Unlike our previous hotel, this one didn’t do breakfast in the room, but they had a nice spread in a room off the lobby. They had a cappuccino machine, which weren’t as good as our previous morning cappuccinos. They also had a weird little machine that would hard boil eggs, but we didn’t try that. Evidently it took about 15 minutes! I had some pastries which were pretty excellent though.

IMG_3808
After breakfast we went to the farmer’s market in a nearby square

We wanted to get food for our lunch, but we also wanted more espresso…we averaged 3-4 espresso shots per day and they were always good, with the exception of the espresso at the Vatican.

IMG_2546
Look at these adorable peach pastries!

We split up again because Julian, Louie and I wanted to go to the Orvieto Underground tour, which would tour some of the caves and tunnels under the city.

IMG_3813 IMG_3814

IMG_3824

The holes in the wall were for pigeons to nest. The Orvietans learned that you could just provide a place for them to nest and you wouldn’t have to feed them…and then you could eat them. Kind of mean, but cheaper than chickens. I wonder what the pigeons thought of all of this. I guess they kept coming back anyway.

IMG_3826
Our tour guide told us that place in the distance that looks like a castle is now a fancy hotel.

IMG_3830

We learned about the caves, and how some of them were originally used by the Etruscans who were the original founders of the town, and then they were expanded in the Middle Ages when more “modern” people built on top. They dug out the rock to build houses on top, and often used the caves for wine cellars or to make olive oil in a temperature controlled place, or to raise pigeons, or simply to store extra junk like a basement.

The tour was interesting and definitely worthwhile.

Back on top at Piazza del Duomo.

IMG_3831

We met up with the others and decided to have our picnic back near the edge of town in a nice little park area. There were several stray cats around who were very cute and wanted food—well mostly cute. One of them had a sad eye problem happening.

IMG_3833
This one resembled my cat.

IMG_3835

We enjoyed some porchetta sandwiches we’d gotten at the market earlier…until I noticed an ant, and then another, and then realized we were surrounded by giant ants! They say you can’t have a picnic without ants, and indeed this was true.

After lunch we had a little more time to wander around before needed to get the funicular down the hill to catch our train. We were headed to Fiumicino which was a coastal town right near the airport.

IMG_3838
Beautiful courtyard we wandered into.
IMG_3842
Three wheeled trucks.
IMG_3844
An archway with a smaller archway…filled in to make a wall.
IMG_2552
Orvieto selfie!

It was downhill to the funicular, and we made quite a loud group each rolling a suitcase on the cobblestones. It was a bit embarrassing but we had no other real option as the bus didn’t run for several hours in the afternoon.

IMG_3846
Getting on the car. It ended up being completely packed, and I was crammed in the front 
IMG_3850
I had a great view so I took some pictures!
IMG_3851
You can see where the other car passes on the way down/up.

The weight of the train car going down powers the one going up, and halfway through they have a double track so they can switch places. I found it a little nervewracking!

IMG_3852

IMG_3854

We didn’t have assigned seats on the train like we did on the opposite route—this time we had a few more stops getting into Rome than before. We were taking the train to the airport actually and then had plans to get a cab to our hotel.

It turns out that taking a cab from the airport to a nearby hotel is nearly as expensive as taking the cab into Rome. I suppose after the taxi driver waits in the taxi line, they don’t want a cheap fare, so they just charge a minimum so it’s worth their wait. It was annoying but I found it understandable enough.

We stayed at the Hotel Tiber which was nice and had a lot of orange. It overlooked the sea (according to the map it is the Tyrennian sea) and was clean and modern. We wandered around the pier area for a short while before choosing a seafood restaurant for dinner.

IMG_3860 IMG_3862

There were dozens of fisherman out when were walking around.

IMG_3866
Neat little drawbridge.
IMG_3868
The view from the hotel.

We ate dinner at a nearby restaurant called Il Moro. It was packed and felt hectic, but the food was delicious and in huge quantities. We totally overordered and left feeling a little sick from overeating. I ordered a dish that was supposed to be fried local seafood. It included what looked like entire small fishes. I thought local would be the best thing to order but I’m not so sure!

We went to bed after dinner, and then woke up to find out that our flight was delayed. After a breakfast on the rooftop floor of the hotel (which was an odd mix of Italian and American breakfast foods), we headed to the airport anyway to check in in case things went back to non delayed, but we ended up taking off at least 1 1/2 hours late.  That meant it would be incredibly tight for our connecting flight. The person at check in said there was a later flight that had space so we didn’t worry.

We should have.

Louie and I watched nearly the entire season of Downton Abbey on the plane ride home. We’d watched one episode on the way out, then 7 on the way home, leaving only one! We just ran out of time. Like on the flight out we’d ordered the Asian vegetarian food, which again was a curry and then some random things later like a vegetable sandwich.

Anyway, we got off the plane and started booking it through customs. We got our bags without too much trouble and then had to take a little train to the right concourse. We had about five minutes until the plane left, but we hoped they would wait on us, and we started running. We got there with two minutes to spare, and the gate was empty. The door was closed and no one was there. After a few minutes a person came out and said she tried to get them to wait on us but that they didn’t believe we would make it in time so they left…basically early. We went to rebook, and only Elliot (alphabetical order) could be rebooked on the next flight. The rest of us were booked through Chicago (from Detroit) to St Louis and would arrive home around midnight. That meant that we’d been up since around 7 am Italian time and would be basically 24 hours of traveling. We were pretty angry at the airlines, and especially at the gate agent in the morning who could have gone ahead and booked us on the next flight home which would have saved us a flight and about 4 hours of traveling. What can you do though!

We had a few drinks and a snack ($50 for four drinks and a sweet potato fries…tuna is very rare here) and then flew to O’Hare, the armpit of America. Well, unless you consider LaGuardia. I hate O’Hare though.

Finally we got on our last flight. I was so tired I felt nauseous, and I tried to sleep on the flight but it was very bright and cold and uncomfortable, and they kept making announcements. Honestly, Delta, don’t make noise on an 11 pm flight! Do like Southwest and dim the lights and SHUT UP. And if you are delaying people for 4- 5 hours I think that drink tickets are in order, but I don’t run an airline. I’m a decent human being.

We got a cab home.

And there you have it. 8 blog posts. 9 days. Italy with my boyfriend’s family. It was a once in a lifetime trip and I’m so grateful and lucky!

People ask, what was my favorite thing? It’s hard to say. I love traveling internationally. I love seeing places that are unlike where I live. I love the history of Europe—I think my favorite thing is seeing how stuff is built on top of other stuff. I loved seeing Orvieto, though I grew up in a small town and I imagine that small town Italy is much like small town anywhere, but with more pasta. I loved the energy of Rome. I loved wandering around. I loved the cheese and pasta and cheap wine. I didn’t love all the people trying to sell stuff on the streets, or how the men are aggressively flirtatious, or all the throngs of people. I loved the espresso and the pastries…

Traveling just makes me want to travel more. The older I’ve gotten the more I appreciate beautiful landscapes, architecture, good local food, and just soaking up the experience of being somewhere else. I take it for granted a bit less than I did in the past, and I can’t wait to get out into the world again! I hope you’ve enjoyed reading my trip blog posts as much as I’ve enjoyed writing them 🙂

Onward and upward: to Orvieto (Day 7)

As much fun as we were having in Rome, we were all excited to leave the crowds and the hustle and bustle and move into the countryside.

And really, so much more than fun—so much learning about history and art and architecture…and relationships and getting along with people (not always my strong suit, but always trying to improve!)

So far, though I imagine most of you have read my other recaps, here are the links in case you haven’t.

Rome wasn’t built in a day and neither will I blog about it in one day

The Appian Way

The Vatican Museum is just one long line to see the Sistine Chapel

The Colosseum

All sorts of good things

Skulls and Femurs and Tibias, oh my?

With that: let’s continue. We checked out of the delightful Hotel Suisse after our last breakfast there and started on our walk to Termini Station. We made it in plenty of time and even got to spend a euro using the toilets.

IMG_3693

The five of us had our own compartment on the train which was nice. It was approximately an hour and 15 minutes to Orvieto so we settled in for a somewhat scenic ride.

IMG_3694

As nice as it is looking out the window of a train, I found that it made for lousy photographs, at least when I am the photographer. But we went through the countryside, and went through many tunnels (where our ears popped, sometimes painfully). We were nearly there when the train had to stop for about 15 minutes due to some issue, but we got moving again and arrived without further incident at the station in Orvieto.

Orvieto is a medieval town on the top of a hill. It wasn’t covered in my guidebook on Rome (odd, right?!) so I didn’t have too much information, but luckily Louie’s mom had copied a bunch of stuff and shared it with us all. Once we arrived, we bought our return tickets for the next day and got our funicular tickets to go up the mountain to the old town. The town has expanded to the lower parts, but the fun, touristy stuff is up the hill.

IMG_3698
The Funicular is conveniently right across the street from the train station.

At the top of the hill we caught a little bus to take us near our hotel. The bus was jam packed and we were in the back, and when we got to our stop it was a disaster trying to get off the bus. We were telling people, in English and Italian, that we needed to get off, along with some other people, and the people blocking us didn’t understand what was going on. We finally managed to squeeze our way onto the street and got to a very cute hotel, Albergo Filippeschi.

IMG_3701

We quickly settled into our rooms and then headed out to sightsee. Orvieto was very small and walkable.

IMG_3703

We headed for the Cathedral first since that was the most impressive place, and we had a terrific lunch on the Piazza Duomo. I ordered a sandwich with pancetta and truffle oil, (pancetta sandwiches seemed to be THE thing to get and were advertised everywhere, so when in Rome…) and honestly, it is the food item I most dream about today. I could eat that sandwich every day of my life and be so happy.

IMG_3708

After lunch we toured the inside of the duomo. It was spectacular, and had some really intense frescoes depicting the Day of Judgment.

IMG_3721 IMG_3723

IMG_3730

The Duomo was started in 1290 and not finished until the mid-1400’s. Imagine if our construction today took that long.

IMG_3742

Louie and I took off on our own to simply wander around the town. We wanted to stretch our legs after the train ride and just explore. It was much cooler, temperature wise, than it had been in Rome and in fact was raining off and on.

IMG_3745

Also Louie’s camera broke so he took some pictures on my camera. He is a better photographer than I am (I need to get better!). See if you can tell which ones are his!

IMG_3750
The detail on the Duomo walls is breathtaking, isn’t it?

IMG_3747

IMG_3756
This was a very tiny van.

You’d think with all the money they put into the Duomo that there wouldn’t be too many other churches, but there were! None quite so fancy though.

IMG_3758 IMG_3760

IMG_3793

IMG_3762
We walked down towards the funicular and found some excellent views.
IMG_3765
My fear of heights was in full force.

IMG_3770

IMG_3780

You can see St Patrick’s Well there. They needed to find a water source to use while they were under siege. They dug a well 175 feet deep in order to reach the water. There are stairs down inside it and the stairs form a double helix so that the mules that carried the water could be going down and up without running into each other. And then we paid 6 euros for the privilege of walking down and then up the well.

IMG_3788
First, looking down the well…

And then, looking up. I preferred looking up, personally.

IMG_3782

We needed to head back towards the hotel in order to meet up, so we headed back up. The town was basically one big hill on a hill.

IMG_3801

They had some walkways around the edge. I think they might have gone all the way around, but we didn’t have time to explore. (Also I became slightly terrified of the edge.)

IMG_3803

IMG_3807

We had dinner at Le Grotto del Funaro, which was basically a restaurant in a cave. We learned more about caves the following day, so I have some hindsight information here. Most of the houses in Orvieto were built out of the rocks that were dug out from underneath them, so each house has a cave underneath of varying size and degree. Caves are used for various things such as storage, wine cellars, and those on the edges used them for housing pigeons. In this case we had a delicious dinner in one. I ordered the chef’s dinner which came with 4 courses, including a selection of antipasto, a polenta dish, pasta, and dessert. I didn’t like my dessert but others at the table did, so it didn’t go to waste.

Rome is great, but Rome is full of noise—voices, traffic, and crazy birds. Orvieto is full of peace and quiet. I slept well.